论工匠精神背景下的手绣与机绣针法融合路径  

Integration of stitches between hand embroidery and digital embroidery based on craftsmanship spirit

作　　者：张鎏鑫 ZHANG Liuxin(Academy of Arts&Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100084,China)

机构地区：[1]清华大学美术学院,北京100084

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第10期1-9,共9页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：在传统工艺振兴、大力弘扬工匠精神与制造业升级的多重背景下,依托中国传统手工刺绣针法,深度挖掘刺绣机制造潜力,数字化赋能提升绣品质量,成为刺绣产业升级的重要途经。文章通过对手绣针法与机绣针法的解读,从技术实现角度分析刺绣机制造业及制版软件所面临的困境,进一步剖析出现此困境的原因,并提出相应的突破路径。手绣针法数字化模拟实验结果表明:综合利用刺绣机和制版软件的现有针法,可直接或间接地达到传统手绣效果,从而提升绣品价值。最后,从可行性角度提出了手绣针法与机绣针法有效融合的实施保障。Under the multiple backgrounds of revitalizing China’s traditional crafts,carrying forward the craftsmanship spirit and upgrading of the manufacturing,the embroidery industry has an excellent chance to upgrade.Relying on traditional Chinese hand embroidery stitches to stimulate the potential of embroidery machines and improve the quality of embroidery in digital methods has become a meaningful way to upgrade the embroidery industry.Through the interpretation of hand and digital embroidery stitches,this paper analyzes the difficulties faced by machine manufacturing and embroidery CAD software from the perspective of technical realization.Further,the author explores the reasons for this dilemma,and puts forward the corresponding breakthrough path.The hand embroidery stitches mentioned in this paper refer to the commonly used stitches in hand embroidery with silk as the main embroidery thread,such as the French Knots and couching stitch widely used in the Four Well-known Embroideries.The embroidery stitch is the technology in which the needle endows the threads with form.The operation mode of the needle determines the structure of the embroidery thread.Due to the significant difference between hand stitching and digital stitching,hand stitching is richer than digital stitching in quantity and variety.Therefore,the author adopts the experimental method of combining theory with practice.Theoretically,the author sorts out the classification of stitches by hand and machine respectively to find the opportunity to integrate the two.Then,in exercise,the author simulates the hand stitches with CAD modeling and makes the actual samples.Under the functional conditions of the existing CAD software and embroidery machinery,the author attempts to find the similarities between machine and hand embroidery as an opportunity for transformation.In machine embroidery,through constantly adjusting parameters with patience and giving full play to the functions of software and machinery,this experiment digitally simulates more than ten

关 键 词：刺绣 机绣 数码刺绣 针法 制版 刺绣机制造业 刺绣产业 产业升级 

分 类 号：TS935.2[轻工技术与工程]