基于CHES-FY系统的织物触感风格等级评价  

Grade evaluation of fabric tactile style based on CHES-FY system

作　　者：阳丹 杜赵群[1] 刘贵 林旭 YANG Dan;DU Zhaoqun;LIU Gui;LIN Xu(Key Laboratory of Textile Science&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Textiles Inspection Technology,Fujian Fiber Inspection Center,Fuzhou 350026,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [2]福建省纤维检验中心福建省纺织产品检测技术重点实验室,福州350026

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第10期82-90,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家市场监管总局科技计划资助项目(2021YJ008);上海市科技创新行动计划自然科学基金项目(20ZR1400200,22ZR1400500);中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金资助项目(2232021G-06);国家自然科学基金资助项目(52173218);福建省纺织品检测技术重点实验室(福建省纤维检验中心)项目(2021-MXJ-01)。

摘　　要：织物触感风格的客观评价对面料开发和检测具有重要作用,本文基于综合手感评估系统(CHES-FY)风格仪对织物不同方向的触感风格进行测试,运用K-means聚类统计分析方法,结合簇内误差法和轮廓系数法优取K值,对织物柔软度、硬挺度、滑爽度和松紧度风格指标进行等级划分;进一步利用贝叶斯判别法建立了判断织物基本风格等级的判别函数,得到织物基本风格等级评价模型。结果表明:基于优选K值结果,使用K-means聚类分析和贝叶斯判别分析判别织物基本风格等级的方法准确可靠,能够实现快速、客观的织物风格等级评价,为形成科学有效的织物风格等级评价系统提供了理论依据。Tactile handle of the fabric is the comprehensive response of people’s subjective feeling to the physical and mechanical properties of fabric.The objective evaluation of fabric style plays an important role in the process of fabric development and testing.In recent years,the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns(CHES-FY)has been widely used in the style performance testing of textiles such as garments and home textile,and the test instrument can obtain a number of basic style indicators through a single measurement on one instrument,which has the characteristics of high efficiency and low cost.However,the current analysis method of fabric style level evaluation still has mathematical and statistical defects.There are some subjective factors in the method of using subjective rating or judging K value by experience in K-means clustering.The grade evaluation of various basic style indexes of CHES-FY system needs to be further studied.Therefore,this paper grades the tactile style indexes of CHES-FY system in order to realize a scientific and effective style grade evaluation system.We collected 60 fabrics with great differences in material,color,thickness and area density,including 35 samples of woven fabrics and 25 samples of knitted fabrics.The material components of the samples include a variety of common fibers,such as cotton,polyester,wool,silk,viscose,spandex and nylon.Then the tactile style values of the fabric in warp,weft and 45°directions were objectively tested by CHES-FY,and the style indexes of fabric softness,stiffness,smoothness and tightness were obtained.Further,the K-means clustering statistical analysis method was used to classify the objective index results,and the K value was objectively selected by combining the Sum of Squared Errors(SSE)and Silhouette Coefficient method.It was found that the number of softness clusters was 5,the number of stiffness clusters was 3,the number of smoothness clusters was 4,and the number of tightness clusters was 5.After the classification

关 键 词：CHES-FY系统 织物风格 等级划分 K-MEANS聚类 优选K值 贝叶斯判别 

分 类 号：TS101.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]