衣物黄变组分的检测与试样的复现制备  

Detection of yellowing components in clothing and reproduction and preparation of samples

作　　者：肖雨嫣 任泽华 张嫄 杨宇 刘建立 XIAO Yuyan;REN Zehua;ZHANG Yuan;YANG Yu;LIU Jianli(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Wuxi Little Swan Electric Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214035,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡小天鹅电器有限公司,江苏无锡214035

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第11期40-46,共7页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：为了鉴定人体皮脂污染衣物中黄变物质的化学组成,文章采用气质联用法对收集的真实黄变衣物进行黄变组分的定性和半定量测试。结果表明,甲基庚烯酮、香叶基丙酮和棕榈油酸3种物质为引起衣物黄变的可能组分。接着采用甲基庚烯酮、香叶基丙酮和棕榈油酸对纯棉织物进行黄变污染试验,复现了真实黄变试样;验证了上述3种物质是造成衣物黄变的主要组分,并讨论了黄变物质相对质量分数、烘燥温度及烘燥时间对试样黄度的影响。结果表明,3种黄变物质对棉织物均有致黄现象,且香叶基丙酮致黄现象最显著。The yellowing of clothing is a common phenomenon in the process of wearing or storing.Once the clothing yellows,it is difficult to remove,which will affect the appearance and service life of clothing.Studies have found that the gradual yellowing of white textiles is due to the oxidation of hydroxyl groups on cellulose to form carbonyl and carboxyl groups and their accumulation.The yellowing of clothing is often concentrated in the neck and armpit areas.Some scholars have detected the cleaned clothing and found the color substances that cannot be removed are esters and ketones generated after oxidation of sebum.However,there are few studies on specific yellowing substances on clothing.And there are differences in the yellowing degree of different clothing,and there is no standard division for the evaluation of the yellowing degree of clothing.In order to identify the specific components of yellowish clothes,GC-MS was used to qualitatively and semi-quantitatively detect the collected yellowish clothes,and the test results were collated and summarized to screen yellow substances with high content.Three substances that may cause yellowing of clothing were summarized:methylheptenone,geraniol acetone and palmitoleic acid.In order to verify whether these three substances are the main components causing yellowing of cotton fabrics,methylheptenone,geraniol acetone and palmitoleic acid were used to conduct pollution tests on pure cotton fabrics,and real yellowing samples were reproduced.In order to standardize the degree of yellowing of the samples,the visual yellowing degree of samples was standardized.The effects of the relative mass fraction of yellowing material,drying temperature and drying time on the yellowness of samples were discussed.The optimal treatment process of single-component and mixed-component yellowing samples was determined by orthogonal experiment.The results show that methylheptenone,geraniol acetone and palmitoleic acid have yellowing effect on cotton fabrics;the relative mass fraction of yellowing

关 键 词：棉织物 黄变组分 气质联用 甲基庚烯酮 香叶基丙酮 棕榈油酸 试样复现 

分 类 号：TS107.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]