明代贴里与曳撒形制异同考  

Similarities and Differences Between Tieli and Yisan in Ming Dynasty

作　　者：常晓君[1] 王楚昀 CHANG Xiaojun;WANG Chuyun(Art Theory Research Center,Taiyuan Normal University,Jinzhong 030619,China)

机构地区：[1]太原师范学院艺术学理论研究中心,山西晋中030619

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第6期506-513,561,共9页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：山西省研究生教育教学改革项目(2021YJJG271);山西省研究生教育创新项目(2022Y756)。

摘　　要：针对明代男子服饰中常见的贴里与曳撒服装形制易混淆、不明确的问题,通过对相关文献的疏理以及对贴里、曳撒文物的分析,从服装裁剪、衣褶样式以及着装习惯角度,对明代贴里、曳撒的形制进行梳理并加以区分。总结得出,贴里的穿着人群具有跨阶级性,与曳撒的“贵族制式”不同;且贴里的裁剪缝合形式为前后、上下分裁,褶形主要有顺褶、平褶两类,合围或单侧开衩下摆,无曳撒之缯角。研究表明:明代常见男子服饰中的贴里和曳撒虽具有类似起源,但在服装样式与着装制度方面均有差异,贴里在形制层面更贴近蒙元传统,而曳撒则为蒙元文化与汉族传统文化融合的产物。In view of the confusion and ambiguity of the common forms of tieli and yisan in men's costume in Ming Dynasty,this paper combed and distinguished the forms of tieli and yisan in Ming Dynasty from the perspective of costume cutting,pleat styles and dress habits by examining the relevant literature and analyzing the cultural relics of tieli and yisan.The conclusion is that the people wearing tieli have a cross-class nature,which is different from the"aristocratic system"of yisan.Moreover,the cutting and sewing form of tieli is front-back,up-down cutting,and the pleats are mainly of two types:straight pleats and flat pleats,with hemming or one-sided slit hem,without yisan's corners.The research shows that although the tieli and yisan of common men's costume in Ming Dynasty have similar origins,but their costume styles and dress regimes are different.Tieli is closer to the Mongolian and Yuan traditions in shape,while yisan is the fusion product of Mongolian and Yuan cultures and Han traditional cultures.

关 键 词：贴里 曳撒 明代服饰 服饰形制 汉族传统服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]