多元文化交融视角下中国古代织物莲纹造型研究  

Study on lotus patterns in ancient Chinese textiles from the perspective of multicultural integration

作　　者：赵艾茜 赵丰[1,2] ZHAO Aixi;ZHAO Feng(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第1期128-135,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2019YFC1521301)。

摘　　要：莲纹作为中国传统纹饰突出的代表之一,在古代染织纹样史研究中,较少从多角度解读其映照的跨文化交流。文章结合现存实物考证,梳理莲纹造型流变,分析其所见丝绸之路多元文化交融及对外国纺织品的影响。研究认为:早期莲纹基于“十”字形结构发展为“四叶式”,具有本土自身的发展体系。北朝至唐代织物中“莲座”图式受到古希腊罗马建筑和犍陀罗艺术的影响,“莲花化生”图式映射出佛教生命思想及世俗吉祥寓意;由“宝相莲花”图式管窥中日纺织艺术交流,“滴珠窠”图式是蒙元时期中国与伊朗纺织文化交流的例证,文艺复兴时期欧洲纺织品中石榴形莲纹反映了中国莲花原型的跨文化传播。The lotus pattern is an important motif in ancient Chinese decorative art,and its evolution is both continuous and diverse,which reflects a variety of artistic styles and cultural characteristics.In the study of ancient dyeing and weaving pattern history,few people have summarized the artistic characteristics of the lotus pattern,nor have they interpreted the transcultural exchange from multiple research perspectives.Therefore,an in-depth analysis of the lotus pattern in ancient Chinese textiles can help enrich the study of ancient dyeing and weaving art history.We use the iconography and comparative approach,sorting out development process of lotus patterns in textiles in different periods based on archaeological findings and domestic and foreign museum collections.The results indicate that the“four-leaf”style with its own local development was developed for the early Chinese decorative lotus patterns based on the“cross-shaped”structure.The style had wide range of applications and gradually stylized structure,reflecting the ancient Chinese cosmic consciousness and ancient people’s creation concept by integrating the“four directions”concept of space.Under the influence of foreign cultures along the Silk Road,there were three types of lotus patterns:“trapezoidal lotus”,“scroll grass lotus”and“bird stepping on lotus”in the textiles from the Northern Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty,which borrowed from the elements of ancient Greek and Roman architecture,and characteristics of Gandhara Buddha statues,and also absorbed the composition elements of textiles in Central Asia and West Asia.The“lotus transformation”pattern reflects Buddhist thought of life and its integration with local secular culture.This is precisely the result of balance among foreign religious beliefs,aesthetic interests and the local social psychology in the exchange.From the perspective of outward spread of the Chinese lotus archetype,the“Baoxiang lotus”pattern in textiles in Shosoin of Japan shows the exchange of the te

关 键 词：织物纹样 莲纹造型 丝绸之路 多元文化交融 跨文化交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]