日本《夷酋列像》中的“虾夷锦”服饰分析  

Analysis of Ezo-nishiki costumes in Japan’s Ishu Retsuzo

作　　者：张华怡 梁惠娥[1,2,3] ZHANG Huayi;LIANG Hui’e(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Base,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Art,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214063,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214063

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第1期154-162,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金资助项目(21BG142)。

摘　　要：《夷酋列像》是江户时期“虾夷绘”的代表作,也是中日服饰文化交流的历史见证。画中所描绘的十二酋长中有十位都穿着来自中国的“虾夷锦”。本文梳理并分析了《夷酋列像》的源起及主要人物,尝试复原《夷酋列像》中“虾夷锦”的服饰形制及图案,并与明清时期的蟒袍、龙袍进行对比分析。研究表明:《夷酋列像》虽然是松前藩对于十二位酋长功勋的嘉奖,但在绘制过程中人为加入了“蛮夷外邦”的特征元素,画中酋长所着的“虾夷锦”在服饰纹样类型上与明清龙袍、蟒袍无异,但在纹样刻画的细节、服饰穿着方式、搭配习惯方面存在较大差异。本文研究成果有助于证实明清时期中华文化在东北亚地区的主体地位,为东北亚地区文化交流融合提供案例借鉴。Ishu Retsuzo is a representative work of Ezo Painting in the Edo period.The painting mainly depicts the portraits of the twelve chiefs who assisted the lord of the Matsumae clan in pacifying the war during the Ezo Rebellion.Among the twelve chiefs,ten were wearing Ezo-nishiki from China.Ezo-nishiki was originally a reward from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the leaders of ethnic minorities in the lower reaches of the Heilongjiang River,and then gradually flowed into Japan in the trade exchange with the Japanese Ezo people.Therefore,the Ezo-nishiki in Ishu Retsuzo has become an important evidence of the transaction between the minority people in the lower reaches of Heilongjiang and the Ezo people in Hokkaido,and it has also become a historical witness of the cultural exchange between China and Japan.It helps to confirm the dominant position of Chinese culture in Northeast Asia during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Firstly,based on ancient Chinese and Japanese documents,we sort out and analyze the origin and main characters of Ishu Retsuzo.Then,we carry out a comparative analysis of nearly 60 python robes and dragon robes from the Palace Museum and China National Silk Museum and the Ezo-nishiki in the article,trying to restore the costume shape and pattern of the Ezo-nishiki in Ishu Retsuzo.Furthermore,we compare and analyze the pattern details with the python robes and dragon robes in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Two important conclusions are drawn.Firstly,Ishu Retsuzo was an award given to the twelve chiefs by the Matsumae clan,but the characteristic elements of“barbarian foreign countries”such as“three white eyes,awl bun,and barefoot”were artificially added in the drawing process for the purpose of“distinguishing the difference”.Secondly,the Ezo-nishiki worn by the chiefs was no different from the Ming and Qing dragon robes and python robes in the type of clothing patterns,and dragon patterns,python patterns,sea water cliff patterns and cloud patterns were mainly used.However,the simplification and chan

关 键 词：夷酋列像 虾夷锦 蟒袍 龙袍 阿伊努 虾夷绘 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]