辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯的结构表征及保湿性能评价  

Structural characterization and moisturizing performance of octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester

作　　者：赵元超 董振鹏 许虎君 ZHAO Yuanchao;DONG Zhenpeng;XU Hujun(School of Chemical&Material Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China;Liaoning Oxiranchem Inc.,Liaoyang 111003,Liaoning,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学化学与材料工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]辽宁奥克化学股份有限公司,辽宁辽阳111003

出　　处：《中国油脂》2022年第11期56-62,共7页China Oils and Fats

摘　　要：为了开发具有保湿、修复功效的类神经酰胺产品,以月桂酰谷氨酸、辛基十二醇为原料,通过无溶剂法制备了辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯(PS-203),并对PS-203结构进行了表征。借助皮肤探头测试系统研究了PS-203在两种挥发性溶液体系中的保湿效果,并与神经酰胺2等保湿成分进行了对比。另外,构建离体猪皮模型,采用皮肤超声诊断法评价了PS-203对受损皮肤的修复效果。结果表明:通过结构表征,证明了PS-203被成功合成;质量分数为3%、4%、5%的PS-203溶液保湿效果最好,使用后3 h内皮肤水分含量(MMV)变化率可提高至8.9%,经皮水分散失(TEWL)降低率可达24.4%;PS-203能达到与神经酰胺2相近的保湿效果,且保湿效果明显优于角鲨烷、霍霍巴油、棕榈酸乙基己酯和辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯;PS-203可使离体受损猪皮角质层密度提高3百分点,皮肤厚度增加7μm,效果与神经酰胺2相近。综上,PS-203在皮肤保湿及修复方面均具有优异的表现。In order to develop ceramide-like products with moisturizing and repairing performance,octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate diester(PS-203)was prepared by a solvent-free method with lauroyl glutamic acid and octyldodecanol as raw materials,and the structure of the product was characterized.The moisturizing performance of PS-203 in two volatile solution systems was detected by means of a skin probe test system,and compared with moisturizing ingredients such as ceramide 2.In addition,a porcine skin model in vitro was constructed,and the repairing effect of PS-203 on damaged skin was evaluated by skin ultrasound diagnosis.The results showed that structural characterization proved the successful synthesis of PS-203.PS-203 solutions with mass fractions of 3%,4%,and 5%had the best moisturizing effect,and within 3 h after applying,the change rate of mean moisture content(MMV)could increase to 8.9%,and the transdermal water loss(TEWL)reduction rate could reach 24.4%.Compare with ceramide 2,PS-203 could achieve a similar moisturizing effect,and its moisturizing effect was significantly better than squalane,jojoba oil,and ethylhexyl palmitate and caprylic/capric triglyceride.PS-203 could increase the stratum corneum density by 3 percentage points and epidermal thickness by 7μm in damaged porcine skin in vitro,which was similar to ceramide 2.In conclusion,PS-203 has excellent performance in both skin moisturization and repair.

关 键 词：辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸双酯 皮肤水分含量 经皮水分散失 保湿 

分 类 号：TQ658.2[化学工程—精细化工] TQ423.41