13—14世纪丝绸之路上的铭文纺织品风格研究  

Study on the styles of the inscribed textiles along the Silk Road in the 13-14 th centuries

作　　者：王浩威 赵丰[1,2] WANG Haowei;ZHAO Feng(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第2期139-148,共10页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：铭文纺织品是丝绸之路上长久使用的一种纺织品,且在13—14世纪有明显的风格变化。针对此问题,本文通过对比研究的方法,从铭文样式和图案题材的角度,对13—14世纪前后丝绸之路上的铭文纺织品风格进行了梳理和分析,发现中国和中亚、西亚地区的铭文纺织品开始使用高度风格化的伪文及通俗性的祈福文字;北非和欧洲的伊斯兰地区已不再大量使用塞尔柱样式,但仍保留了部分塞尔柱母题且铭文的含义集中于宗教和政治内容;欧洲基督教地区的仿品类结合多种异域母题,宗教用品类则无明显改变。研究表明,生产系统的交流和新型市场的形成是导致这种风格变化的直接因素。Inscribed textiles are a special type of textiles along the Silk Road.They have been used as luxurious textiles since around the 1 st century AD.According to the inscriptions,they can be roughly divided into Chinese inscribed textiles,Islamic inscribed textiles and Christian inscribed textiles.Compared with the past,the style of inscribed textiles along the Silk Road changed obviously in the 13 th and 14 th centuries,clearly showing the cross-cultural effect,which is of great value for studying the textile and cultural exchanges along the Silk Road in the 13 th and 14 th centuries.Based on objects and texts,we focus on the styles of inscribed textiles along the Silk Road in the 13 th and 14 th centuries.After a comparative analysis of the inscriptions and the motives,we find out that the styles of the textiles are closely related to their functions,and two important conclusions are drawn.First,the political and economic activities along the Silk Road in the 13 th and 14 th centuries promoted the communication of textile workshop systems,making the inscribed textiles present an“eclectic style”,which is embodied in the mixed use of local motives and foreign motives in ornament,as well as the combination of foreign ornaments and local shapes in fashion design.Second,the economic and religious activities changed the market of inscribed textiles,and in the new market circumstance,inscriptions on textiles could no longer achieve their political function but transformed into a type of ornament.Specifically,in foreign markets,the symbolic significance of textiles with inscriptions has been significantly weakened,and they have become rare products with important economic value.We found that changes in the political landscape and multilateral exchanges on the Silk Road in the 13 th and 14 th centuries had a great impact on the style of inscribed textiles.On the one hand,the Mongol Conquest greatly promoted the cultural exchanges between China and Central Asia,and West Asia,making the traditional Arabic inscriptions tur

关 键 词：丝绸之路 铭文纺织品 纺织品风格 提拉兹 伪铭文 跨文化交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K875.2[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]