手工纤维艺术在中性服装中的表现  

The Performance of Handmade Fiber Art in Neutral Clothing

作　　者：刘琼[1] 赵楠楠 Liu Qiong;Zhao Nannan

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院服装设计学院

出　　处：《服装设计师》2023年第2期119-125,共7页Fashion China

基　　金：江西省教育科学“十三五”规划2019年度一般课题(19YB261),校级科研平台:服装三维数字化科创中心。

摘　　要：中性化又称unisex,中性化服装是一种将性别模糊化的服饰品类之一。人们对服饰穿着的包容性的提高及女性在职场地位的提高,推动着中性服装的发展,使其拥有了更广的消费市场。本课题主要从西装的特征及中性服装的代表“吸烟装”入手,试图革新出不同于传统观念中人们对于中性服装在版型上、色彩及图案上的刻板印象的中性化系列服装。选题在思路上结合当下流行趋势、分析中性化服装目前的研究现状,运用研究方法得出选题的成果及缺陷。通过实践法,将现代纤维艺术当中的刺绣及编织技法同中性化服装中的西装融合设计,同时从服装材质的不同运用来体现出挺括感与柔软性融合与一体的视觉体验。通过交叉研究法研究在室内装饰学科在壁饰、挂饰的设计中,将现代手工纤维艺术从装饰画、家具用品的装饰等交叉领域关联运用到服装领域。通过整理说明文中的研究思路及研究方法,得出设计师们更多的在中性设计下选择黑白灰的搭配,且国内款式局限,图案运用缺失及平面化的问题。在本次的图案效果设计中融入绣红色及立体感的图案造型,研究手工纤维艺术材质在服装上的运用,补充传统思维下设计师们对于材质在图案这一版块的缺失。Neutralization is also called the unisex,neuter clothing is a kind of apparel category of gender in the fuzzy sense.The improvement of people's inclusiveness of clothing and women's status in the workplace have promoted the development of neutral clothing and made it have a wider consumer market.This topic mainly starts from the characteristics of suit and the representative of neutral clothing"smoking suit",trying to innovate the neutral clothing series which is different from the stereotyped impression of neutral clothing in the pattern,color and pattern in the traditional concept.On the basis of the current fashion trend,the thesis analyzes the current research status of neutral clothing and uses research methods to obtain the results and defects of the thesis.Through practice,the embroidery and weaving techniques of modern fiber art are integrated with the suit design of neutral clothing,and the visual experience of the integration of crisp and soft is reflected from the different application of clothing materials.Through the cross research method,the modern handmade fiber art is applied to the field of clothing from decorative paintings,furniture decoration and other cross fields in the design of wall decoration and hanging decoration of interior decoration discipline.Through sorting out the research ideas and methods in the expository text,it is concluded that designers often choose the collocation of black,white and gray in neutral design,and the domestic style is limited,the use of patterns is missing and the problems of planarization.In this pattern effect design,embroidered red and three-dimensional pattern modeling are integrated,and the application of handmade fiber artistic materials in clothing is studied to supplement the lack of materials in pattern by designers under traditional thinking.

关 键 词：中性化风格 西装 手工纤维艺术 

分 类 号：TS935.5-4[轻工技术与工程]