全球化背景下跨国餐饮空间的多元感知与消费实践——以广州Zagol Habesha餐厅为例  

Multiple Perceptions and Consumption Practices of Transnational Restaurant in the Context of Globalization:A Case Study of Guangzhou Zagol Habesha Ethiopian Restaurant

作　　者：尹铎 杨蓉 林婕璇 YIN Duo;YANG Rong;LIN Jiexuan(School of Geography and Remote Sensing,Guangzhou University,Guangzhou 510006,China;The Research Center for Human Geography and Urban Development in Southern China,Guangzhou 510006,China;Think Tank for Migration Governance and Urban Development in the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area,Guangzhou 510006,China;Guangdong Urban&Rural Planning and Design Institute Co.LTD,Guangzhou 510006,China)

机构地区：[1]广州大学地理科学与遥感学院,广东广州510006 [2]华南人文地理与城市发展研究中心,广东广州510006 [3]粤港澳大湾区移民治理与城市发展智库,广东广州510006 [4]广东省城乡规划设计研究院有限责任公司,广东广州510006

出　　处：《旅游学刊》2023年第2期134-147,共14页Tourism Tribune

基　　金：国家自然科学基金青年项目“基于城市多样性的族裔社会空间生产过程与机制——广州案例”(42201256);中国博士后科学基金“城市多元族裔移民社会空间的特征、过程与机制:广州案例”(2021M690770);广东省基础与应用基础研究基金自然科学基金项目“城市多元族裔空间的格局演化与建构机制——基于广(州)佛(山)对比研究”(2022A1515011723)共同资助。

摘　　要：在全球化背景下,以广州极具代表性的埃塞俄比亚餐厅Zagol Habesha为案例,运用综合质性研究方法,探讨跨国餐厅中多元消费群体差异化的消费体验、文化感知与社会互动。文章通过分析广州多元文化群体在跨国餐厅中的餐饮消费行为与跨文化互动,揭示了全球化背景下城市日常消费空间中社会关系再生产的现实图景与微观机制。研究发现:(1)跨国餐厅是埃塞俄比亚客商群体存续传统文化身份认同的重要文化飞地,他们通过饮食消费重温地方文化,获得应对多重不稳定性的心理韧性,同时建立起相互支持的临时族裔社区。(2)对于本地消费者来说,餐厅为他们提供了双重的文化多样性体验,一方面不断印证已有的固有认知与文化想象,另一方面不断建构具有包容性的多元文化价值观念。(3)餐厅为差异化的文化群体提供了基于日常生活的重要互动媒介,通过其中拥有不同文化习惯、文化经验与文化态度的个体之间的持续互动,固有的文化差异被协商、解构和重塑。结论认为,埃塞俄比亚餐厅作为城市全球化背景下社会文化多样性的重要产物,使多元社会群体不断阅读和体验文化差异,通过群体间积极的跨文化交流与良性互动,促进了城市中对于在穗非洲移民的文化包容与社会融合叙事,持续重构着城市微空间中的全球-本地社会关系再生产与文化意义建构。Nowadays,transnational restaurants are the most visible spatial manifestations of glocalization in world cities.This paper takes Ethiopian restaurant Zagol Habesha as an example,which is a representative transnational restaurant in Guangzhou,to explore the differentiated consumption experience,cultural perception and social interaction of diverse consumer groups under the background of urban globalization.Drawing on a comprehensive qualitative research method,the study reveals the realistic picture and mechanism of construction of cultural meaning and reproduction of social relations of multicultural groups in Guangzhou based on daily consumption spaces.The study found that:(1)Transnational restaurant is an important cultural enclave for Ethiopian merchants to maintain their traditional cultural identity.They revisit traditional culture through food consumption,obtain psychological resilience to deal with multiple instabilities,and establish a temporary ethnic community that supports each other.(2)For local consumers,the restaurant provides them with a dual experience of cultural diversity.On one hand,it constantly confirms the existing cultural imagination and inherent cognition,and on the other hand,it constantly constructs inclusive diversity values.(3)The restaurant also plays a role as an important interactive medium based on everyday life for different cultural groups.Through the continuous interaction between individuals with different cultural habits,cultural experience and cultural attitudes,the monolithic cultural differences are negotiated,deconstructed and reshaped.It is concluded that Ethiopian restaurant,as an important product of social diversity under the background of urban globalization,enables multi-cultural groups to constantly read and experience cultural differences.The positive trans-cultural exchanges and positive interactions between groups have promoted the narrative of cultural inclusion and social integration of African immigrants in Guangzhou,and it continues to reproduce global-local

关 键 词：跨国餐厅 饮食消费 移民 跨文化互动 广州 

分 类 号：F59[经济管理—旅游管理]