明代皇帝服饰上的“华虫”考释  

On The Decorative ’Hua Chong’ Embroidered in The Ming-dynasty Emperors’ Robes

作　　者：杨妍均 陈芳 Yang Yanjun;Chen Fang

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院《艺术设计研究》编辑部 [2]北京服装学院美术学院

出　　处：《故宫博物院院刊》2023年第3期87-100,150,共15页Palace Museum Journal

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目“明代军戎服饰研究”(项目编号:Z1BG115);浙江省哲学社会科学规划课题成果(项目编号:23NDJC230YB)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：“华虫”为十二章纹之一,饰于帝王最高等级之服饰。作者从博物学视角,探究了“华虫”在明代皇帝玄衣、衮服上的使用情况与造型变化。同时对“华虫”原型进行考释,追溯了其原型为环颈雉、而后变为白腹锦鸡、最后定型为红腹锦鸡的过程,并对“华虫”象征涵义的演变进行梳理。‘Hua Chong’ as one of the twelve decorative motifs(‘Zhang Wen’ in Chinese pinyin) is usually embroidered in Chinese emperors’ highest-formal costume.Viewed from the natural history,the ‘Hua Chong’ is explored in the thesis that are stitched in the Mingdynasty emperors’ costume of Xuanyi and Gunfu in use and design,whose motif is based on the red-bellied golden pheasant or ‘Chinese pheasant’ that derives from the earlier white-bellied golden pheasant that developed from the ring-necked pheasant as the earliest source.The evolution of the Hua Chong’ as the symbolic meaning is also analyzed here.

关 键 词：华虫 玄衣 衮服 博物学 环颈雉 红腹锦鸡 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K248[历史地理—历史学] K871.45[历史地理—中国史]