日本江户时期和制南蛮胴的范式转变——以美国大都会艺术博物馆藏品为例  

Paradigm shift of Japanese made Nanban Do in the Edo period:A study case of the collectionof the Metropolitan Museum of Art

作　　者：武文茜 王新厚 WU Wenxi;WANG Xinhou(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;College of Mechanical Engineering,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Key Laboratory of TextileScience&Technology,Ministry of Education,Shanghai 201620,China;Parsons The New School for Design,New York 10010,USA)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]东华大学机械学院,上海201620 [3]纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [4]帕森斯设计学院,纽约10010

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第6期132-141,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(51776034)。

摘　　要：和制南蛮胴具足是日本江户时期传统铠甲的重要组成部分,过去对于和制南蛮胴的研究多关注其形制与材料而忽略范式演变的研究。针对其范式转变的外在形式与内在原因,本文运用历史分析法、文献分析法与个案研究法,对美国大都会艺术博物馆的南蛮胴及亚欧铠甲藏品进行归纳比较,在回溯南蛮胴具足发展之源流后,发现其不同阶段的范式转变源自于时代语境变迁下,对外来文化习得与转化的不同方式,并在后期的批判性接纳中适时革新。通过研究表明:1)和制南蛮胴的范式转变是一个“重述变换破立”的递进发展过程;2)东西方铠甲并不是各自独立发展的系统,西方技术与东方文化交融环境下的和制南蛮胴蕴含着实验艺术品的特质;3)东亚传统铠甲文化是一个以中国为中心建立的谱系架构,深入研究和制南蛮胴的发展对于中国乃至东亚铠甲的研究具有积极意义。In terms of society and culture,the Edo era in Japanese history was a vibrant and rich time.The evolution of Japanese traditional armor technology and armor culture achieved its pinnacle with the entry of Western technology into the contemporary age and the absorption of Chinese culture,giving rise to the distinctive Japanese system of Nanban Dō.The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,the USA,has a sizable collection of ancient weapons and armor that spans geographies and covers various historical eras of Asian and European armor,including a considerable portion of Japanese armor.This creates objective conditions for the comparison study of Japanese armor structure and form.We summarized and compared the Nanban Dōand the Asian and European armor collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the United States in this article using historical analysis,documentary analysis,and case study techniques.It is found that the paradigm shift at different stages of the development of Nanban Dōwas based on the different ways of acquiring and transforming foreign cultures in the changing contexts of the times,and the timely innovation in the later critical acceptance.The following conclusions were obtained from the study.First,the paradigm development of Japanese Nanban Dōwas related to the level of productivity,national military power,and aesthetic trends of the times,and was also inseparably related to the history of political and cultural exchanges.The paradigm transformation path of design imitation and re-creation of Japanese made Nanban Dōwas a process of restatement-transformation-breaking,and in this process a vigilance for civilizational assimilation was always maintained.Second,East armor and West armor were not separate systems that developed independently of each other.The evolution of the paradigm of the Edo period’s Japanese made Nanban Dōwas an attempt by craftsmen from various regions to find a scientific balance between the aesthetics of Edo armor at a time when Eastern and Western cultures were

关 键 词：江户时期 和制南蛮胴 铠甲 范式 复古 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K875.2[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]