日常本能·味觉认同·政治隐喻--陆文夫《美食家》的饮食书写  

Daily instinct,taste identity,political metaphor[WT5BZ]--on the dietary writing“The Gourmet”by Lu Wenfu

作　　者：范科苑 FAN Keyuan(Center For Research of Chinese New Literature,Nanjing University,Nanjing,Jiangsu 210023,China)

机构地区：[1]南京大学中国新文学研究中心,江苏南京210023

出　　处：《美食研究》2023年第2期20-25,33,共7页Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture

基　　金：国家社科基金重大项目(20&ZD282)。

摘　　要：陆文夫1983年发表中篇小说《美食家》,其中对食物意象和饮食行为的着重叙述极具代表性。通过解读文本中的饮食书写,可从日常本能、味觉认同、政治隐喻层面,考察小说饮食叙述的表层和内里,揭示口腹味蕾之上承载的复杂寓意。《美食家》中的饮食书写,以沉潜于饮食中的口腹欲望、生存本能为起点,引申出食物与味觉记忆、地域认同之间的关系。小说赋予“吃”以厚重内涵,在饮食消费史与社会发展史的互动、饮食差异与食者身份的对应性关联之中,社会历史与身份政治在最为日常的饮食行为中获得具体化呈现。在20世纪80年代的时代语境和文学场域中,小说极具独创性地将“吃”的问题推到前景,开掘了“由食及人”的精神向度和文学版图。Lu Wenfu’s novella Gourmet,published in 1983,is very representative in its emphasis on food image and eating behavior.Through the interpretation of the food writing in the text,we can study the surface and inside of the food narrative in the novel from the level of daily instinct,taste identification and political metaphor,and reveal the complex implied meaning carried by the taste buds of the mouth.The dietary writing in“the Gourmet”started from the oral desire and survival instinct submerged in food,and extended the relationship between food,taste memory and regional identity.The novel endowed“eating”with a heavy connotation.In the interaction between the history of food consumption and the history of social development,and the corresponding correlation between dietary differences and the identity of the eater,social history and identity politics are concretized in the most daily eating behavior.In the context and literary field of the 1980s,the novel pushed the problem of“eating”to the foreground with great originality,and explored the spiritual dimension and literary map of“eating and human being”.

关 键 词：陆文夫 《美食家》 饮食书写 文本寓意 

分 类 号：TS971.1[轻工技术与工程]