可活动式男体立裁人台手臂的研制方法对比  

Comparison of development methods of movable arm of male draping dress form

作　　者：许珂 王旭 赵慧 黄文娟 宣璐佳 曹幸路 XU Ke;WANG Xu;ZHAO Hui;HUANG Wenjuan;XUAN Lujia;CAO Xinglu(Fiber Inspection Bureau in Henan Province,Zhengzhou 450042,China;School of Fashion,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou 451191,China;School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]河南省纤维检验局,河南郑州450042 [2]河南工程学院服装学院,河南郑州451191 [3]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620

出　　处：《西安工程大学学报》2023年第3期28-35,共8页Journal of Xi’an Polytechnic University

基　　金：河南省市场监督管理局科技计划项目(2021sj47);河南省高等学校重点科研项目(20B540001);河南省重点研发与推广专项(科技攻关)项目(232102231032)。

摘　　要：为了解决目前市场上现有的立裁人台手臂尺寸不标准、活动不方便等问题,基于最新采集的青年男体手臂尺寸数据,利用正向、逆向2种建模技术构建手臂模型,并设计出2种可活动式肩部关节连接件,采用快速成型技术完成产品制作,实现手臂在冠状面90°及矢状面360°的自由旋转,并满足立裁扎针的需要,为成衣袖型设计提供必要工具。对比主客观评价结果发现,利用正向建模技术,配合阻尼铰链制作的人台手臂综合性能较好,为了进一步提高手臂的建模效果,建议采用正逆向混合建模技术进行模型构建。该方法为相关生产企业提供了技术参考。In order to solve the existing problems such as non-standard size and inconvenient activities of the arm of dress form in current market,based on the latest collection of young male body size data,the forward and reverse modeling technology were used to build arm model.And two kinds of shoulder joint fittings were designed.The producTSwere manufactured by rapid prototyping technology to realize free rotation of the arm at 90°coronal plane and 360°sagittal plane,which can meet the needs of draping fixation,and provide the necessary tools for garment sleeve design.The subjective and objective evaluation compared resulTSshow that the comprehensive performance of product with damping hinge by using forward modeling technology was better.In order to further improve the modeling effect,the forward and reverse hybrid modeling technology is suggested in the modeling building of the arm of dress form.This method provides technical reference for related production enterprises.

关 键 词：人台手臂 立体裁剪 袖型设计 正向建模技术 逆向工程技术 

分 类 号：TS941.5[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS955.8