藏传佛教羌姆袍“百衲”结构的意涵  

The Meaning of the Structure of"Patchwork"in Vcham Robes of Tibetan Buddhism

作　　者：孔旭 刘瑞璞[1] KONG Xu;LIU Ruipu(College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2023年第3期54-62,共9页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：羌姆袍是藏传佛教羌姆仪轨中的重要服饰,它以独特的“百衲”结构蕴含着深刻藏汉融合的宗教文化。文章采用实物与文献结合的类型学研究方法,对羌姆袍“百衲”结构进行释读。研究认为:①百衲结构在藏汉佛教的三衣、曲贵等僧侣服饰中多有体现,是具有深刻“苦修”象征意义的宗教图符,这种宗教图符在藏传佛教的羌姆袍中又有着“无量”的特点;②羌姆袍百衲结构既是藏传佛教“万物有灵”的精神寄托,又有着中华民族俭以养德的传统,是中华传统服饰结构形态天人合一精神内涵的藏族范式;③羌姆袍百衲结构既有对物的敬畏,又有对神的敬畏,既是僧服又是神服,其平面“回”字百衲形式具有以羌姆仪轨感召俗众的宗教普渡众生意义。The Vcham Robe is an important costume in the vcham ritual of Tibetan Buddhism.With its unique"patchwork"structure,it contains a profound religious culture of integration of Tibetan and Han.This paper interprets the"patchwork"structure of the Vcham Robe by using the typological research method of combining material objects with literature.The research believes that:First,the patchwork structure is mostly reflected in the costumes of monks such as Sanyi and Qugui in Tibetan and Han Buddhism,and it is a religious symbol with profound"ascetic"symbolic significance.This religious symbol has the characteristics of"wuliang"in the Vcham robes of Tibetan Buddhism;Second,The Vcham robe patchwork structure is not only the spiritual sustenance of Tibetan Buddhism's"all things are spiritual",but also has the Chinese nation's tradition of frugality,which is the Tibetan paradigm with the spiritual connotation of the unity of heaven and man in the Chinese traditional clothing structure;Third,The structure of Vcham Robe's patchwork not only shows reverence for objects but also for gods.It is both a monk's clothing and a god's clothing,and its flat"Hui"character patchwork form has the significance of using Vcham rituals to inspire the common people and promote religious education for all living beings.

关 键 词：藏传佛教 羌姆袍 百衲 万物有灵 节俭 敬畏 

分 类 号：TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]