文旅视阈下意大利布契拉提品牌首饰对织纹雕金技艺的复兴与发展  

Renaissance and development of Italian Buccellati brand jewelry on weaving and carving gold croft from the perspective of cultural tourism

作　　者：周雨恬 陈志钢 Zhou Yutian;Chen Zhigang(School of Design Art,China Academy of Art,Hangzhou 310000,China;School of Physical Education,Hangzhou Normal University,Hangzhou 311121,China)

机构地区：[1]中国美术学院设计艺术学院,浙江杭州310000 [2]杭州师范大学体育学院,浙江杭州311121

出　　处：《纺织报告》2023年第5期120-122,共3页

摘　　要：作为布契拉提首饰的核心工艺,意大利织纹雕金工艺自文艺复兴时期诞生以来历经了多个发展阶段而逐渐衰弱。文章以意大利著名珠宝品牌布契拉提首饰为研究对象,系统地梳理了品牌的发展历史,从织纹雕金工艺的制作材料、工艺流程以及设计风格的演变等方面展开探究,探讨布契拉提品牌首饰是如何复兴并发扬这一古老的工艺,并将其融入当代时尚。现如今,中国虽有品种丰富、源远流长的传统首饰工艺,却缺乏将传统工艺融入时尚并将其文化价值与工艺价值输出至全世界的品牌。因此,研究布契拉提品牌首饰的前世与今生,期望能对中国首饰工艺的传承与当代发展提供启示与借鉴,并围绕纪念品设计、文旅融合、仪式感等思路提出建议。As the core craft of Buccellati jewelry,Italian weaving and carving gold craft has gone through multiple stages of development since its birth during the Renaissance and has gradually declined.This paper takes the famous Italian jewelry brand Buccellati jewelry as the research object,systematically reviews the brand’s development history,and explores the production materials,process flow,and design style evolution of weaving and carving gold craft,discusses how the Buccellati brand jewelry revives and promotes this ancient craft,and integrates it into contemporary fashion.Nowadays,although China has a rich variety of traditional jewelry crafts with a long history,it lacks brands that integrate traditional crafts into fashion and export its cultural and craft value to the world.Therefore,studying the past and present lives of Buccellati brand jewelry is expected to provide inspiration and reference for the inheritance and contemporary development of Chinese jewelry craft,and to propose suggestions around souvenir design,cultural tourism integration,and a sense of ceremony.

关 键 词：布契拉提 珠宝 雕金 

分 类 号：TS934.3[轻工技术与工程]