“二战”前后法美时尚转承进程中的夏帕瑞丽高级时装屋  

Schiaparelli Haute Couture House During the Transferring Process of French and American Fashion Before and After"World WarⅡ"

作　　者：刘丽娴[1] 朱一婷 LIU Lixian;ZHU Yiting(Zhejiang Silk and Fashion Culture Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《服装学报》2023年第4期357-362,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学领军人才培育专项子课题项目(22YJRC03ZD-1YB)。

摘　　要：为了还原20世纪法、美时尚转承路径,借助文献研究与比较分析的研究方法,解读法、美时尚转承进程中的内外动因与历史必然。以夏帕瑞丽高级时装屋为典型案例,分析夏帕瑞丽在“二战”前后如何通过具有前瞻性的设计风格、运营方式、艺术活动等将法国高级时尚传播至美国市场,并对美国时尚产生深刻影响,进而以点带面地映射20世纪法、美转承互动的时尚进程。研究发现:在法、美时尚转承过程中,美国政治经济的快速发展是主要动力,而“二战”引发的文化、艺术、产业、人才转移、价值观变化则是助推剂,为美国时尚发展创造了必要的科学、技术、文化、艺术条件。In order to restore the transition path of French and American fashion in the 20th century,this paper compares their development separately,and analyzes the internal and external driving force and necessary elements behind them.At the same time,it highlights the development of Schiaparelli Haute Couture House and analyzes its forward-looking design style,operation method and artistic activities before and after"World WarⅡ",which resonates with the transfer of French and American fashion.Activities and other innovations from French high fashion make profound impact on American fashion,and then reflects the fashion process of the twentieth century's interaction between France and the United States.The study finds that during the process of the transfer,the rapid development of the US political economy as the main driving force,while the culture,art,industry,talent immigration and value changes caused by"World WarⅡ"all contribute to the development of American fashion,which provide necessary conditions from scientific,technological,cultural and artistic aspects.

关 键 词：西方时尚 历史样本 转承互动 高级时装屋 

分 类 号：F713.5[经济管理—市场营销] F768.3[经济管理—产业经济] TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]