阿魏酸皮肤生理作用及其化妆品包载技术研究进展  

Research progress in skin physiological effects and its cosmetic encapsulation technology of ferulic acid

作　　者：熊洁 杨丹 孟宏[1,2] 何一凡[1,2] 裴晓静 Jie Xiong;Dan Yang;Hong Meng;Yifan He;Xiaojing Pei(Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Beijing Technology and Business University,School of Chemical and Material Engineering,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究院基地,北京100048 [2]北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2023年第9期1073-1079,共7页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家重点研发计划“科技助力经济2020”重点专项(2020YFF0426290)。

摘　　要：阿魏酸具有美白、抗衰、防晒等良好的皮肤生理作用,可作为一种功效原料应用到化妆品中。目前阿魏酸在医药、食品和农业等领域中应用广泛,在化妆品领域还处在研究发展阶段。本文主要从阿魏酸的皮肤生理作用出发,阐述了阿魏酸美白、抗衰、抗氧化等生理活性及其良好的应用前景。但由于阿魏酸在水中的溶解度差,性质不稳定,在化妆品中的应用受到了限制,为此很多研究者用多种方法来改善阿魏酸的应用性。其中,包载技术是将阿魏酸包裹起来添加到化妆品中,不仅能够提高阿魏酸的溶解度,还提高了它在化妆品配方中的配伍性。本文总结归纳了几种常用的包载技术,包括磷脂复合物、纳米乳、环糊精包合物、水凝胶、分子笼等,为阿魏酸在化妆品中的研发和应用提供重要参考。Ferulic acid has good skin physiology effects such as whitening,anti-aging and sun protection,and can be used as a raw material in cosmetics.At present,ferulic acid is widely used in medicine and food,and it is still in the research and development stage in cosmetics.This review mainly elaborated the physiological activities of ferulic acid such as whitening,anti-aging,sunscreen and its application in cosmetics.Due to the poor solubility in water and the unstable properties of ferulic acid,its application in cosmetics is limited.For this reason,many efforts have been made to improve the applicability of ferulic acid.Among them,the encapsulation technology is to wrap ferulic acid and then apply it to cosmetics,which can not only improve the solubility of ferulic acid,but also increase the compatibility of ferulic acid in cosmetic formulations.This paper summarizes several commonly used encapsulation technologies,including phospholipid complexes,nanoemulsion,cyclodextrin inclusion complexes,hydrogels,molecular cages,etc.,which provide significant references for the development and application of ferulic acid in cosmetics.

关 键 词：阿魏酸 皮肤生理作用 化妆品应用 包载技术 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]