从粉体角度探究底妆暗沉的本质原因  

New insight into the reason of the darkening of liquid foundation from the view of powder

作　　者：杜思南 罗慧桢 秦纪华 章琼尹 蒲科 DU Si-nan;LUO Hui-zhen;QIN Ji-hua;ZHANG Qiong-yin;PU Ke(Shanghai Co-Fun Biotech Corp.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201500,China)

机构地区：[1]上海蔻沣生物科技有限公司,上海201500

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2023年第10期30-35,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：完美底妆是精致妆容的保障,底妆暗沉问题严重影响着即时妆效,也困扰广大研究者和消费者。为此制备了基础粉底液,比较不同色相粉底暗沉情况,讨论粉底乳化体系挥发和皮肤出油对暗沉的影响,并采用非接触色差仪监测粉底的色差值,从而探究影响粉底暗沉的因素。结果表明,粉底暗沉并非是氧化造成。红色相的粉底暗沉更快,是因为人眼对于红色色相变化更敏感。体系挥发和皮肤油脂分泌会加速粉底暗沉进程,是粉底表面结构变化引起的。基于以上因素理解,对基础配方进行调整,提出改良配方,显著减缓了粉底暗沉的进程。Perfect base makeup is the guarantee of exquisite makeup.However,the problem of darkening of base makeup seriously affects the instant cosmetic effect,which troubles the relevant researchers and consumers.In this work,some liquid foundations were prepared,and the darkening of liquid foundations of different colors were compared.The effects of evaporation of emulsifying system and sebum secretion were discussed.A non-contact colorimeter was used to monitor the color deviation to investigate the influencing factors of darkening.The results showed that the foundation darkening was not caused by oxidation.The red hue of the foundation darkened faster because the human eye was more sensitive to the color deviation of red.The volatilization and skin sebum secretion accelerated the foundation darkening process,which was caused by the change of foundation surface structure.Considering the above influencing factors,the formula was adjusted and an improved formula was proposed,which could significantly slow down the process of foundation darkening.

关 键 词：粉底暗沉 挥发性 皮脂 色粉 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]