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作 者:郑培凯 Zheng Peikai
出 处:《故宫博物院院刊》2023年第9期4-15,146,共13页Palace Museum Journal
摘 要:本文首先探讨饮茶起源,结合考古发现与古代文献,指出远在新石器时代,中国先民已经开始喝茶。唐代陆羽撰写《茶经》之后,饮茶出现茶仪规矩以及茶道意识,为社会上层精英提供了审美与文化修养的途径。唐代饮茶的主流方式是制团研末,烹煎成沫饽;宋代则讲究点茶与斗茶,击拂拉花,享受视觉美感;明清时期,以芽叶冲泡为主,清代以后闽赣皖山区出现茶业发酵工艺。茶器的使用,也因茶饮方式而改变,由唐代崇尚越窑青瓷,到宋代讲求建窑黑瓷,至明清珍爱白瓷与青花,并对紫砂茶器特别瞩目。This thesis traces the history of tea-drinking in sources,manners and rites as well.As is recorded in archaeological findings and historical literatures,Chinese forefathers drink tea as early as in the Neolithic Age.The Classic of Tea by Lu Yu of the Tang dynasty inspires people's awareness of rituals and manners for tea-drinking ceremony,which ushers the social elites into aesthetic and cultural accomplishment.The way of tea-serving has been sort of changing through the dynasties of Tang,Song,Ming and Qing.Specifically,the Tang people usually make tea froth(Mòbōin Chinese pinyin)through the procedure of briquetting,pulverizing and boiling.The Song people prefer Diancha and Doucha performed as the tea-whipping and tea-making contest between and among the competitors,who personally does the whole process of boiling water,ordering tea,tasting tea for visual amusement and enjoyment from the rituals.By the Ming and Qing dynasties,bud leavesoaking takes popularity among the people.Later on,tea fermentation technology is emerging in the mountainous areas of Fujian,Jiangxi and Anhui Provinces.The making of tea-sets has been going through innovation in stuffi,craftsmanship,design and style along with the developing rites for tea-serving and tea-drinking,from the Yue celadon of the Tang Dynasty to the Jian black-glazed of the Song dynasty,then to the white-glazed and the whiteand-blue of the Ming and Qing dynasties,with Zisha as a kind of purple-sand tea-maker growing in fashion along.
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