明代品官的身份认同——以常服为例  

The Identity of Officials in the Ming Dynasty——Taking the Regular Costume as an Example

作　　者：丁培利 王亚蓉 Ding Peili;Wang Yarong

机构地区：[1]首都师范大学历史学院 [2]中国社会科学研究院考古所

出　　处：《南方文物》2023年第4期119-125,共7页Cultural Relics in Southern China

基　　金：陕西高校青年创新团队项目“中国传统服饰文化研究”(项目编号:203010079)。

摘　　要：明代制定了非常繁琐、严格的品官服饰制度,统治者试图通过服饰来达到贵贱有别、望而知之的效果,官员也想通过特定服饰来彰显自己的身份地位。本文以官服中受众最广泛、穿着场合最多、最深入人心的品官常服为例,从视觉层面和文化心理层面来分析,明代官员如何通过以乌纱帽、装饰着不同花样的圆领袍服、各种贵重材质制作的腰带组合成的常服完成了世人对于其身份的认同。The Ming dynasty established a series of strict and cumbersome clothing systems for officials.Ancient emperors tried to distinguish the nobility from the lowly by costume,and the officials also wanted to show their status by special costume.This article takes the oficial costume,which has the most extensive audience,the most occasions to wear,and the most deeply rooted in people's mind,as an example,and analyzes it from the visual level and the cultural psychological level,how the Ming Dynasty officials through the wusha-hat,decorated with different patterns of Yuanling,a variety of precious materials of belt combination of the official costume to complete theworld's identity.

关 键 词：品官常服 身份认同 补子 腰带 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K248[历史地理—历史学]