含透明质酸、聚谷氨酸钠、乙酰壳糖胺护肤复合物的保湿性能及屏障修复功能研究  

Evaluation of Moisturizing Properties and Infl uence of Skin Barrier Repair Function of A Cosmetic Material Composed of Hyaluronic Acid,Sodium Polyglutamate,and Acetyl Glucosamine

作　　者：任姝静 王志华 张晓鸥 郭学平 刘卫[2] 王玉玲 REN Shujing;WANG Zhihua;ZHANG Xiaoou;GUO Xueping;LIU Wei;WANG Yuling(R&D Center Bloomage Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Jinan 250101,Shandong,China;College of Life Science and Technology,Huazhong University of Science and Technology,Wuhan 430074,Hubei,China)

机构地区：[1]华熙生物科技股份有限公司研发中心,山东济南250101 [2]华中科技大学生命科学与技术学院,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《中国美容医学》2023年第11期71-75,共5页Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine

摘　　要：目的:研究含透明质酸(Hyaluronic acid,HA)、聚谷氨酸钠(Sodium polyglutamate,PGA)、乙酰壳糖胺(Acetyl glucosamine,NAG)的护肤复合物(熙衡因)对皮肤屏障的影响。方法:采用角质形成细胞评估熙衡因的细胞毒性,在此基础上通过3D皮肤模型考察其对吡咯烷酮羧酸(Pyrrolidone carboxylicacid,PCA)、丝聚蛋白(Filaggrin,FLG)、兜甲蛋白(Loricrin,LOR)、转谷氨酰胺酶1(Transglutaminase1,TGM1)和神经酰胺的影响,并通过人体临床实验,于使用前、使用后1、2、4周分别测试含有2%熙衡因的乳液对经皮水分流失(Trans epidermal water loss,TEWL)的影响。结果:MTT实验结果表明熙衡因在10 mg/ml浓度范围内对角质形成细胞无明显细胞毒性,选定1.25 mg/ml进行测试,该浓度下其可以显著增加PCA、FLG、LOR、TGM1和神经酰胺含量(P<0.05),并可以上调神经酰胺/蛋白(P<0.05)和长碳链神经酰胺占比;人体临床功效测试显示,相比空白对照组,含有2%熙衡因的实验组在使用样品后1、2、4周可以显著降低TEWL(P<0.01)。结论:熙衡因可以通过提高PCA、FLG、LOR、TGM1和神经酰胺含量,减少TEWL,发挥保湿和修复屏障功能。Objective To investigate the eff ect of a cosmetic raw material containing HA,PGA and NAG on the skin barrier.Methods Keratinocytes were used to evaluate the cytotoxicity,and the eff ect on PCA,FLG,LOR,TGM1 and ceramide were investigated by a 3D skin model.In order to further verify the barrier repair function,the eff ect of emulsion containing 2%of the compound material on TEWL was tested before and 1,2 and 4 weeks after application through clinical trial.Results MTT results showed that the compound material had no obvious cytotoxicity to keratinocytes within the concentration of 10 mg/ml,and at 1.25 mg/ml,the compound material could not only signifi cantly up-regulate the expression of PCA,FLG,LOR,TGM1 and ceramide(P<0.05),but also increase the ratio of ceramide to protein(P<0.05)and the proportion of ceramide with longchain.The clinical test showed that compared with the control group,the experimental group with 2%of the compound material could signifi cantly reduce TEWL after applying the emulsion for 1 week,2 weeks and 4 weeks(P<0.01).Conclusion The cosmetic raw material containing HA,PGA and NAG can exert the function of moisturizing and repairing barrier by increasing the content of PCA,FLG,LOR,TGM1 and ceramide,and decreasing TEWL.

关 键 词：透明质酸 屏障修复 天然保湿因子 丝聚蛋白 兜甲蛋白 转谷氨酰胺酶 神经酰胺 

分 类 号：R758.2[医药卫生—皮肤病学与性病学]