宋代女子足服弓鞋考释  

Commentary on women′s foot wear bow shoes in the Song dynasty

作　　者：陈晨 任佳欣 李静[1] 张彬 CHEN Chen;REN Jiaxin;LI Jing;ZHANG Bin(School of Apparel and Art Design,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710048,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第1期87-93,共7页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(22CB165);陕西省教育厅科学研究计划项目(23JP059);陕西高校青年创新团队“中国传统服饰文化研究创新团队”支持计划。

摘　　要：缠足是中国古代女子对身体重塑的一种审美文化,弓鞋作为一种足服,是其物化的载体。采用物质文化研究的方法,通过文献与文物相互印证,比对分析,对宋代女子弓鞋的流行时间、形制、搭配与穿着人群等相关问题展开细致探讨。研究表明缠足在五代时期已初步显露,而整个社会以之为时尚是在北宋末与南宋初,宋代弓鞋具有弓、纤、小的外形特征并且与弓起形态的袜子以及裹脚纱相互搭配。穿着人群是由歌舞女妓向富贵有闲阶层的女性中滋蔓的,平民阶层服用较少。宋代女子弓鞋奠定了中国历代弓鞋式样的基础,并为宋以后的历代封建王朝女子所服用。Foot binding is an aesthetic culture of ancient Chinese women′s body remodeling,and bow shoes,as a kind of foot clothing,are the carrier of its materialization.This paper adopts the method of material culture research,verifies each other through literature and cultural relics,and carries out a detailed discussion on period of popularity,shape,collocation and wearing crowd of women′s bow shoes in the Song dynasty.The research shows that foot binding has initially appeared in the five dynasties,while the whole society became fashionable in the late Northern Song and the early Southern Song.Bow shoes in this period are thin and small and with a bow,a godd match with socks in bow shape and foot binding yarn.This song and dance courtesans to the rich and leisure class of women.Instead of ordinary people,those wearing the shoes range laid the foundation of the style of Chinese bow shoes in all dynasties,and the shoes of this style were used by women in feudal dynasties after Song.

关 键 词：宋代 弓鞋 缠足 足服 形制 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]