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作 者:金峥杰 邓可卉[1] JIN Zhengjie;DENG Kehui(College of Humanities,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
机构地区:[1]东华大学人文学院,上海200051
出 处:《中国皮革》2024年第3期37-43,共7页China Leather
基 金:中央高校基本科研业务费东华大学纺织文化研究基地项目“历史视域下的纺织文化”(22D111011)。
摘 要:元曲中所涉及的皮货相关事象,是通过剧曲文学艺术形式反映相关事物的文化现象,也是纺织服饰史料的一种呈现形态。本文采用“曲史互证”的方法,对元曲中有代表性的裘皮和皮革相关事象开展了梳理和辨析。研究发现,元曲皮货相关史料有着充分的事实作为依据和背景,能够印证元代北方游牧民族对毛皮和皮革的使用影响中原地区服用习惯和民族交融的史实。作为元代各民族纺织服饰文化交流相结合的产物,元曲皮货具有鲜明的时代特点和民族特点,提示出一定的史料意义和文化内涵,并可为元代皮革生产和消费史料提供补充。The fur-and-leather-related events involved in Yuan Qu are cultural phenomena that reflect relevant things through the literary and artistic forms of opera,as a form of presentation of historical materials of textile clothing.By adopting the methodology of“mutual verification between opera and history”,the representative fur-andleather-related events in Yuan Qu were sorted out and analyzed.The study finds that the historical materials related to fur and leather in Yuan Qu have sufficient facts as the basis and background,which can confirm the historical fact that the use and consumption of fur and leather by the northern nomads in the Yuan Dynasty affected the wearing habits and ethnic blending in the Central Plains.As a product of the combination of textile clothing cultural exchanges among various ethnic groups in the Yuan Dynasty,fur and leather in Yuan Qu as the distinctive characteristics of the times and ethnic groups,suggest certain historical and cultural significance,and can supplement the historical materials of production and consumption of fur and leather in the Yuan Dynasty.
分 类 号:TS56[轻工技术与工程—皮革化学与工程]
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