基于性别理论的首饰设计研究--以“性别含混化”为例  

Jewelry Design Based on Gender Research Theory:A Case Study of“Gender Ambiguity”

作　　者：李雨静 鲍蕊 LI Yujing;BAO Rui(Gemmological Institute,China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,China;Hubei Key Research Base of Humanities and Social Sciences-Center for Jewelry Heritage and Innovation,Wuhan 430074,China)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(武汉)珠宝学院,湖北武汉430074 [2]湖北省人文社科重点研究基地“珠宝首饰传承与创新发展研究中心”,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《宝石和宝石学杂志（中英文）》2024年第2期96-107,共12页Journal of Gems & Gemmology

基　　金：2022年湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究项目"基于后现代文化的'观念性'设计模式在当代首饰中的应用及价值研究"(22G021);2021年湖北省人文社科重点研究基地珠宝首饰传承与创新发展研究中心项目《日常生活美学视角下当代艺术首饰的设计特征及策略研究》(CJHIXM-04-202101);2022年中央高校新青年科研启动基金项目(G1323522065)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：二十世纪六十年代,女性主义思潮的出现促使男女性别平等、含混的观念在文学、戏剧、美术等领域涌现,进而引发艺术领域的创作思维模式变得更加丰富。基于此背景,“性别含混化”逐渐成为人们重视的概念及社会现象,为艺术创作带来了一个全新且独特的研究视角。与此同时,这也为性别研究提供了理论契机,其理论随着女性主义的流派发展而丰富,但是涉及的实践研究略为单薄。文章基于性别研究(Gender Study),将“性别含混化”观念与理论与当代首饰创作实践相结合,意在给首饰设计带来新的研究视角、表现形式与媒介,拓宽首饰的创作思维,使首饰语言更加多元化。In the 1960s,the emergence of feminism prompted the emergence of gender equality and ambiguous concepts in literature,drama,art and other fields,which led to the enrichment of creative thinking patterns in the art field.Based on this background,“gender ambiguity”has gradually become a concept and social phenomenon that people attach importance to,and has brought a new and unique research perspective to artistic creation.At the same time,it also provides a theoretical opportunity for gender studies.Its theory has been enriched with the development of feminist schools,but the practical research involved is slightly thin.Based on the gender studies,this paper combines the concept and theory of“gender ambiguity”with contemporary jewelry creation practice,aiming to bring new research perspectives,forms of expression and media to jewelry design,broaden jewelry creation thinking,and make jewelry language more diversified.

关 键 词：性别研究 性别含混化 首饰设计 当代首饰 

分 类 号：TS93[轻工技术与工程]