温和弱酸性洁面产品的配方研究  

Study on the Formulation of Mild and Weakly Acidic Facial Cleanser

作　　者：周彪 袁菊懋 徐思伟 ZHOU Biao;YUAN Jumao;XU Siwei(Shanghai Corday Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201703,China)

机构地区：[1]上海科黛生物科技有限公司,上海201703

出　　处：《生物化工》2024年第2期89-93,共5页Biological Chemical Engineering

摘　　要：通过改变三种氨基酸表面活性剂的搭配比例,并且在不同pH条件下测试各洁面产品的刺激性、泡沫性能、去污力、皮肤pH恢复时间和经皮失水率,以确定最佳洁面产品配方。结果表明,随着椰油酰谷氨酸TEA盐质量分数升高,对鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜(CAM)刺激性增大,但起泡能力有所上升。去污能力测试中,当椰油酰基谷氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠和椰油酰两性基乙酸钠的质量比例为32∶4∶4时,对炭黑的去污能力最强,而对蛋白、皮脂的去污能力与其余样品差异性较小。对比不同pH条件下的泡沫性能,pH=4.0的洁面产品起泡性能较差,刺激性较强,但对皮脂污布的去污力最强。在人体测试中,使用pH=5.5的洁面产品后皮肤pH恢复到初始状态的时间最短,经皮失水率也最低。因此,最佳洁面产品配方中椰油酰基谷氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠和椰油酰两性基乙酸钠的质量比例为32∶4∶4,最佳体系应为弱酸性(pH=5.5),该条件下的洁面产品对皮肤最为温和。To determine the best cleansing product formula,the irritability,foam performance,detergency,pH recovery time and transdermal water loss of each cleanser are tested by changing the combination ratio of three amino acid surfactants and different pH conditions.The results show that the irritation to chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane(CAM)increased with the increase of cocamyl glutamate TEA salt content,but the foaming ability increased.In the test of decontamination ability,when the mass ratio of cocamyl glutamate TEA salt,sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoamphoacetate is 32 to 4 to 4,the decontamination ability of carbon black is the strongest,while the decontamination ability of protein and sebum is little different from other samples.Compare the foam performance under different pH conditions,the foaming performance of the cleanser with pH=4.0 is poor,and the irritation is strong,but the detergency of the sebum stain cloth is the strongest compared with other two pH conditions.In human tests,the time needed for skin pH returned to the initial state reached the shortest when using a cleanser with pH=5.5,and the transdermal water loss is also the lowest.Therefore,the mass ratio of cocamyl glutamate TEA salt,sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoamphoacetate in the optimal cleansing product formula is 32 to 4 to 4,and the optimal system should be weakly acidic(pH=5.5),and the cleanser under this condition is the most gentle on the skin.

关 键 词：氨基酸表面活性剂 泡沫性能 去污力 经皮失水率 弱酸性 

分 类 号：TS974.1[轻工技术与工程]