隋代莫高窟壁画菩萨像璎珞造型在首饰设计中的应用  

Application of Yingluo(Necklace)of Bodhisattva in Sui Dynasty Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes Mural in Jewelry Design

作　　者：侯若阳 徐可[1,2] 郝亮 HOU Ruoyang;XU Ke;HAO Liang(Gemmological Institute,China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,China;Hubei Gems and Jewelry Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan 430074,China)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(武汉)珠宝学院,湖北武汉430074 [2]湖北省珠宝工程技术研究中心,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《宝石和宝石学杂志（中英文）》2024年第3期76-84,共9页Journal of Gems & Gemmology

摘　　要：随着全球一体化的推进,首饰设计产业面临着国际竞争,具有民族特色的设计是保持竞争力的关键因素之一。敦煌莫高窟壁画菩萨像璎珞融合了外来宗教文化与中国本土文化,从隋代开始出现了与前代差异明显的新风格,极富创造性,对现代首饰设计具有重要的借鉴意义。本文以隋代莫高窟壁画菩萨像璎珞造型为基础设计制作了《鸣沙踏歌》首饰,提取了隋代407窟和420窟中的壁画菩萨像璎珞,采用短璎珞、中璎珞和“U形+延长链+八字形”长璎珞相结合的造型;采用380窟三兔共耳藻井中的蓝、绿、红配色,利用铜、玛瑙、蝶贝、天河石等材料,设计出具有表现隋代莫高窟壁画菩萨像璎珞造型美感的现代首饰。将莫高窟壁画菩萨像璎珞的造型和色彩应用在现代首饰设计中,顺应了首饰设计民族化和时代发展潮流,是对莫高窟艺术传播与保护的新方式。With the advancement of global integration,the jewelry design industry is facing international competition,and designing with ethnic characteristics is one of the key factors to maintain competitiveness.The Yingluo(a kind of traditional Chinese necklace made with beads of precious materials such as jade and pearl)of the Bodhisattva in Mogao Grottoes murals in Dunhuang has unique decorative style and combines the foreign religious culture with the Chinese local culture.In the Sui Dynasty,Yingluo began to appear a new style that differed markedly from its predecessors,and was very creative,making it an important reference for modern jewelry design.Based on the Yingluo of Bodhisattva in Mogao Grottoes murals of Sui Dynasty,the authors designed and made the Mingshatage jewelry.The design extracts the Yingluo of the Bodhisattva in the murals in Grotto 407 and Grotto 420 of the Sui Dynasty,and adopts the combination of short Yingluo,medium Yingluo,and U-shaped+extended chain+“八”-shaped long Yingluo.The colour scheme adopts blue,green,and red from the Three Rabbit Share Three Ears sunk panel in Grotto 380.The materials used are copper,agate,shell,Tianhe stone,etc.In terms of shape,colour matching,and materials,the modern jewelry is designed to express the beauty of the Bodhisattva in the Sui Dynasty Mogao Grottoes murals.The application of the Yingluo of Bodhisattva in Mogao Grottoes murals in modern jewelry design is an attempt to nationalize jewelry design,and is a new way to promote and protect the art of Mogao Grottoes.

关 键 词：莫高窟 菩萨璎珞 造型 首饰设计 隋代 

分 类 号：TS93[轻工技术与工程]