经丝数量规范下明清纱罗的织造技艺复原研究  

A Study on the Restoration of the Weaving Techniques of Ming and Qing Leno under the Standard of Warp Threads Quantity

作　　者：常卓 束霞平[2] Chang Zhuo;Shu Xiaping

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院 [2]苏州大学艺术学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第3期71-78,共8页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目“清代皇家仪仗用具研究”(项目编号:21BG106);国家社科基金艺术学一般项目“多元融合的中国古代妇女服饰研究(秦汉至清)”(项目编号:20BG119)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：由于织造设备的转变,明清时期绞经织物结构中的无固定绞组销声匿迹,固定绞组占据主流,纱罗成为固定绞组二经绞织物的专称,并形成了标准化的经丝数量。经丝数量标准是对大量生产经验的提炼和总结,为纱罗质量与产量的提升提供了保障。在经丝数量规范下,本文针对纱罗类织物中的暗花纱罗,通过原料准备、织物规格设置、纹样提取、意匠图绘制、上机工艺设计以及可视化的织造过程,系统探究纱罗织造的技术路径,从实践角度验证了纱罗经丝数量的技术标准。最后,本文运用虚拟仿真技术进一步完成了从面料到成衣的呈现,精确模拟了纱罗的物理属性及其成衣穿着效果,实现了“理论—实验—仿真”的一体化研究。Due to the transformation of weaving equipment,the unfixed strands in the Leno structure of the Ming and Qing Dynasties disappeared,and fixed strands dominated,forming a standardized number of warp threads.Based on the warp quantity standard of Leno fabric,this article systematically explores the technical path of Leno fabrics,aiming to verify the technical standard of warp count from a practical perspective,by preparing raw materials,setting fabric specifications,extracting patterns,drawing artwork,designing weaving processes,and visualizing the weaving process for dark patterned yarn in yarn like fabrics.Finally,this article further completed the presentation from fabric to clothing using virtual simulation technology,accurately simulating the physical properties of gauze and its clothing-wearing effect,achieving an integrated research of"theory-experiment-simulation".

关 键 词：经丝数量 纱罗 织造技艺 复原研究 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]