清代女性茉莉簪饰的地域流行及传播路径研究  

Study on the regional popularity and spreading path of jasmine hairpins for Qing Dynasty women

作　　者：周涵 刘瑜[1] ZHOU Han;LIU Yu(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》2024年第2期56-64,共9页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：2016年国家社会科学基金重大项目“丝绸之路中外艺术交流图志”(项目编号:16ZDA173)阶段性成果。

摘　　要：簪花饰首在清代女性中一度成为流行,茉莉簪饰是所用花簪中极具特色的类别。该文关注这一具有时代和地域特色的女性妆扮现象,并结合清代遗存的相关图像及文献资料,对其流行地域、样式进行归纳梳理。发现清代茉莉簪饰的传播是沿着先由岭南至江南,清末再到北方的发展路径。受气候环境、地域文化等多因素影响,茉莉簪饰的使用呈现出极强的地域特色,各地区在簪戴方式、搭配方式上也呈现出差异性;最后受清代中心城市的时尚辐射力影响,以茉莉簪饰首一度成为极具时代特色的头饰妆扮,在多阶层、多民族中传播流行。Flowers hairpins were popular among women in the Qing Dynasty,Jasmine Hairpins were one of the most distinctive types of headdress.This paper focuses on this phenomenon of female ornament with characteristics of the era and the region,and summarizes its popular regions and styles based on relevant images and documents.It is found that the spread of jasmine hairpins experienced a development path from southeast region to the northern region in the late Qing Dynasty.Due to the influence of climate environment,regional culture,and so on,the use of jasmine hairpins has strong regional characteristics,each region shows differences in the way of wearing and matching.Finally,influenced by the central cities in the Qing Dynasty,jasmine hairpins became a very characteristics headdress of the times and became popular among many classes and ethnic groups.

关 键 词：清代女性妆扮 茉莉花簪 地域性 传播路径 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]