北朝对波对凤鸟纹绮绵“风帽”探析  

A study on the Qi floss-filled “Fengmao” with symmetric wave and phoenix patternsfrom the Northern Dynasties

作　　者：张沐旸 田辉 高丹丹 ZHANG Muyang;TIAN Hui;GAO Dandan(Ethic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第8期104-115,共12页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京市属高校分类发展—北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目(23YJC760026);北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新”博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20240096)。

摘　　要：“风帽”是魏晋南北朝时期鲜卑人主要佩戴的一种包裹头部、垂裙系带的帽式,具有鲜明的民族特色和时代特征。文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆收藏的北朝对波对凤鸟纹绮绵“风帽”为主要研究对象,从文献、图像及实物资料出发,对其族属、穿着者身份、年代、形制的时代特征等方面进行分析。研究得出:此件“风帽”为北朝后期的吐谷浑贵族男性穿着,所属年代上限在北魏洛阳时期,下限在隋唐之际。这件珍贵的文物结构与已知同类文物均不相同,展示了一种北魏孝文帝汉化后上狭下阔、帽屋尖小、帽屋帽裙分离的独特“风帽”形制,为这一时期的“风帽”研究提供了重要的实物参照。“Fengmao”is a type of hat mainly worn by the Xianbei people during the Wei,Jin,Southern and Northern Dynasties.It wraps around the head,featuring straps and drapes,and holds distinct ethnic and historical characteristics.The term“Fengmao”is coined by the academic community today due to its design of wrapping around the head with the hat body and draping over the shoulders and back,effectively shielding against wind and cold.Previous research on“Fengmao”has been limited by the scarcity of related cultural relics,primarily focusing on document and image analysis.However,the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology houses a rare specimen:a Qi floss-filled“Fengmao”with symmetric wave and phoenix patterns from the Northern Dynasties.With a unique shape and structure,it provides a valuable physical artifact for research on the“Fengmao”of the Northern Dynasties.This article centered on the research of“Fengmao”specimen from the Northern Dynasties collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology.Based on historical documents,images,and physical materials,this article conducted research and analysis on the ethnic affiliation,wearer identity,era,and stylistic characteristics of the era.The article concluded with three main points.First,it is speculated that this“Fengmao”was worn by a male nobleman from the Tuyuhun region in the late Northern Dynasties,based on the evidence on the collection site,historical background,and seal writing style.Second,by using typological methods to summarize the physical and image data of“Fengmao”from the Northern Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties,it was confirmed that the relative age of the“Fengmao”collected by the Ethnic Costume Museum is between the Luoyang period of Northern Wei and the Sui and Tang Dynasties,and that it is a precious physical specimen of“Fengmao”in the later period of the Northern Dynasties.Third,compared to other known“Fengmao”objects of the same type from the North

关 键 词：“风帽” 北朝 鲜卑帽 吐谷浑 首服 形制 类型学 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]