清代乡民的饮食结构、生活水平与阶层差异——基于1820—1949年浙南乡民食材类型与食单配置的分析  

Dietary Structure,Living Standards and Social Class Differences in the Qing Dynasty:An Analysis Based on Food Basket and Menu Items of Villagers in Southern Zhejiang(1820-1949)

作　　者：蒋勤[1] 冯大诚 JIANG Qin;FENG Da-cheng

机构地区：[1]上海交通大学历史系,上海市200240

出　　处：《南京大学学报（哲学．人文科学．社会科学）》2024年第3期127-141,160,共16页Journal of Nanjing University(Philosophy,Humanities and Social Sciences)

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(19BZS052)。

摘　　要：在有关大分流的争论中,基于民众真实消费史料的分析较为罕见。通过考察1820年至1949年间石仓农家账簿,能够了解近代浙南地区乡民的食材类型以及各类仪式和日常生活的食单配置。在食材类型方面,石仓乡民的主食是米和面,极少为玉米、番薯等;荤食以猪肉为主,禽、蛋次之,罕见牛羊肉,但海产干货扮演重要角色;其他副食方面,体现了鲜明的山林经济特色,包括茶油和各类菌菇,但未体现明确的移民特性。在食单配置方面,通过对四个典型场景所用食材的分析,发现婚嫁和祭祀等仪式均看重猪肉、禽蛋以及海货和香菇类食材;铁炉工人炼铁时更重米和肉的摄入,武童生备考时重视肉、禽、蛋、鱼等动物蛋白质的多元摄入,较少涉及菌菇类食材。分析表明,乡民饮食体现了明确的阶层差异,但移民群体特性并不明显,同时食材和食单具有很强的历史延续性。In the debate on the Great Divergence,there was,though quite few,an analysis focusing on the history of people's food consumption.With an examination of account books of Shicang farmers during the years from 1820 to 1949,it is possible to understand the types of ingredients and the configuration of food lists for kinds of ceremonies and daily life of the common people in the southern Zhejiang area.In terms of the types of ingredients,the staple food of Shicang villagers was rice and wheat,with corn and sweet potatoes as a rare addition.Pork was main for meat diet,followed by poultry and eggs,with a very rare addition of beef and mutton;Dried seafood was important as food ingredients;The characteristics of local mountain-and-forest economy were clearly seen in other non-staple food,including camellia oil and dried shitake mushrooms of various sorts,with no foreign characteristics of the immigrants there found.In terms of the configuration of the food list,the analysis of the ingredients used on four typical occasions revealed that wedding and sacrificial ceremonies both tended to have pork,poultry and eggs,as well as dried seafood and shitake mushrooms;Iron furnace workers preferred more to intake rice and meat,while martial arts students tended to have diversified intake of animal proteins,such as meat,poultry,eggs and fish,with less dried mushrooms during their preparation for examinations.It is shown in this analysis that the villagers'diet reflects clear social class differences,but the immigrant group characteristics are not obvious,and the ingredients and food list have been very persistent in historical continuity.

关 键 词：饮食结构 乡民饮食 乡村阶层 石仓文书 

分 类 号：TS971[轻工技术与工程] K249[历史地理—历史学]