化妆品皮肤安全检测和功效检测标准方法  

Standard Test Guidelines for Skin Safety and Efficacy Testing of Cosmetics

作　　者：甄育 胡晓旭 张璐鸥 谢群慧[1] 杨滢 陈旸升 徐丽[1] 赵斌[1] Zhen Yu;Hu Xiaoxu;Zhang Luou;Xie Qunhui;Yang Ying;Chen Yangsheng;Xu Li;Zhao Bin(State Key Laboratory of Environmental Chemistry and Ecotoxicology,Research Center for Eco-Environmental Sciences,Chinese A cademy of Sciences,Beijing 100085,China;Sino-Danish College,University of Chinese Academy of Sciences,Beijing 100049,China;Jinbo Bio-Pharmaceutical Co.,Ltd.,Taiyuan 300032,China)

机构地区：[1]中国科学院生态环境研究中心、环境化学与生态毒理国家重点实验室,北京100085 [2]中国科学院大学中丹学院,北京100049 [3]山西锦波生物医药股份有限公司,太原300032

出　　处：《生态毒理学报》2024年第4期88-99,共12页Asian Journal of Ecotoxicology

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(22076216);国家重点基础研究发展计划项目(2018YFA0901100)。

摘　　要：化妆品是一类受众甚广的商品,消费者对其需求随社会发展而不断提高。在毒理学等生命科学研究方法的框架内,安全性测试可以排除化妆品对皮肤等组织造成不良反应的风险,功效性测试有助于明晰化妆品中各种活性成分对皮肤的作用机制,能够加强行业的科学监管,防止虚假宣传。因此,规范其安全性和有效性对于人民身心安全及消费市场健康发展均具有重要意义。本文简要汇总了中国和欧盟关于化妆品的标准文件,其中安全性评估包括光毒性、皮肤刺激、皮肤腐蚀和皮肤致敏,功效性评价包括抗氧化、抗衰除皱、保湿和美白,并总结了常用的方法和模型,探讨了化妆品安全性和功效测试方法的发展趋势。本文旨在为皮肤学和毒理学基础研究提供参考,为挖掘更多活性成分的新功效、新机制提供思路,促进替代方法的研究与应用,为建立更有应用潜力的研究方法提供依据。Cosmetics are a major part of modern life,and consumer demand for better cosmetics continues to i ncrease with the development of society.Using life science research methods,including toxicology,safety testing can eliminate the risks of adverse reactions to skin and other tissues caused by cosmetics.Efficacy testing helps to elucidate the mechanisms of various active ingredients in cosmetics on the skin,strengthen scientific supervision in the industry,and prevent false advertising.Therefore,regulating cosmetics’safety and efficacy is essential for the safety of the users and the healthy development of the consumer market.This article briefly summarizes the s tandard documents regarding cosmetics in the European Union and China.The safety testing includes phototoxicity,skin irritation,skin corrosion,and skin sensitization,while the efficacy testing includes antioxidant,anti-aging and anti-wrinkle,moisturizing,and whitening.This paper also summarizes commonly used cosmetic safety models,e xplores the development trends of cosmetic safety,and discusses efficacy testing methods.Additionally,this paper aims to provide reference for basic research in dermatology and toxicology,provide ideas for exploring new efficacy and mechanisms of more active ingredients,promote the research and application of alternative methods,and provide a basis for establishing more promising research methods.

关 键 词：化妆品 皮肤 安全性评价 功效性评价 

分 类 号：X171.5[环境科学与工程—环境科学]