近代中外调查记及史志的纳西族服饰比较研究  

A comparative study of Naxi clothing in modern Chinese and foreign survey records and historical records

作　　者：林儒凡 张粤湘 夏帆[1] LIN Rufan;ZHANG Yuexiang;XIA Fan(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第9期129-135,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重点项目(19AMZ009)。

摘　　要：鉴于现有文献中缺少对近代纳西族服饰直观而鲜活的个案记录的问题,文章从8部西方人调查记中整理出记载有纳西族服饰的相关史料,通过摘录、梳理、分类,以“他我”视角将零散、碎片化却直观而鲜活的纳西族服饰文化形象按服饰设计学规则进行构成及语义研究;同时,对近代该地域的地方史志等史料中的纳西族服饰记载进行查核补充,继而运用“比较文学形象学”与“双过程理论”对其进行比较分析。研究发现,两者在纳西族服饰形象描述上相似,但记录方法和视角差异显著。主要表现为西方人提供了对着装者更为直观的形象描述,并带有鲜明的“自我”文化属性和情感色彩。而中国本土地方史志,则侧重于从“分析过程”的全貌性、理性地记录服饰客观形制和文化环境。通过对两者比较研究,可以得出同时期纳西族服饰文化更全面、科学、系统的认知与评判。This study systematically organized and categorized eight accounts by Western scholars,conducting an in-depth analysis of the content concerning Naxi ethnic costumes within these records,while also integrating and verifying against local historical materials about Naxi costumes.Utilizing comparative literature imagology and dual-process theory,the study conducted a thorough comparative analysis of the costume images in Western accounts and Chinese local documents.The results show that Western researchers often imply personal and cultural self-image associations and emotional expressions when recording the image of Naxi costumes.Such emotional expressions tend to provide immediate and rich descriptions,emphasizing the connection between the costumes and their living environment and social background.In their accounts,they focus more on expressing the significance of Naxi costumes within their environmental and social contexts through emotional tones,reflecting a unique psychological and emotional tendency in cross-cultural exchange.Chinese local chronicles,however,place greater emphasis on documenting the structure and cultural attributes of costumes,focusing on systematically recording the details and historical cultural backgrounds of the costumes,and presenting the profound historical significance contained within through deep cultural connotations and historical investigations.This recording method not only focuses on tracing the evolution of costumes but also emphasizes the interpretation of their cultural connotations,thus reflecting a rich historical and cultural heritage.Through the comparison of Chinese and Western literature,the study reveals significant differences in the focus of observation and interpretation of images between the two.Western documents,characterized by“heuristic processes”,provide intuitive descriptions and emotional colors,while Chinese local documents,characterized by“analytical processes”,offer more systematic and comprehensive records.These differences stem not only from t

关 键 词：近代 西方人调查记 纳西族服饰 双过程理论 比较文学形象学 比较研究 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]