移风易俗与传统延续:20世纪30年代上海“集团结婚”仪式与婚礼服  

Changing Customs and Continuing Tradition:The Ceremony and Wedding Dress of Group Marriage in Shanghai in the 1930s

作　　者：梁惠娥[1] 丁乾琨 李冬蕾 Liang Hui’e;Ding Qiankun;Li Donglei

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院 [2]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第4期26-32,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：2021年度国家社科基金艺术学一般项目“汉族人生礼仪服饰艺术民俗考析及传承路径研究”(项目编号:21BG142)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：上海开埠后社会风俗受西潮冲击,“文明结婚”兴起,西式婚礼服随之流行。20世纪30年代,上海市政府进一步推动移风易俗,率先组织“集团结婚”,同时规定男子婚礼服款式为蓝袍和黑褂。本文针对集团结婚仪式中“新风”与“旧服”并存现象,探讨其成因及意义,并考证目前尚不明确的女性婚礼服款式和色彩。研究认为集团结婚使民众的婚礼仪式由家族私密空间向社会公共空间转变,是上海婚俗进一步西化的体现;同时由于“国家在场”的影响,婚礼服中虽使用西式头纱,但主体仍为中国传统服饰,有效平衡了上海婚礼的国际性与本土性。After the opening of Shanghai,social customs were impacted by the western tide,and the''civilized marriage''rose.Meanwhile,western-style wedding dresses became popular.In the 1930s,the Shanghai municipal government further promoted the change of customs and took the lead in organizing''group marriage'',while stipulating that the styles of men's wedding dresses should be blue robes and black mandarin jackets.This paper discusses the co-existence of"new style"and"old clothes"in group marriage ceremonies,explores their causes and significance,and examines the style and color of women's wedding dresses,which are not yet clear.The study concludes that group marriages have transformed the wedding ceremony from family private space to social public space,which is the embodiment of further westernization of Shanghai's wedding customs.At the same time,due to the influence of"state presence",although wedding dresses contained the western-style veil,the main body was still traditional Chinese clothing,which effectively balanced the internationality and locality of Shanghai’s wedding.

关 键 词：近代上海 集团结婚 国家在场 西式婚仪 传统婚礼服 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]