辽代散乐服饰元素在表演服饰中的应用  

Application of Elements of San Yue Costumes in Performances in Liao Dynasty

作　　者：张彬 王子洋 胡沛 陈晨 ZHANG Bin;WANG Ziyang;HU Pei;CHEN Chen(Xi'an Polytechnic University,710048 Xi'an Shaanxi)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《设计艺术研究》2024年第4期19-25,共7页Design Research

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金第17批特别资助项目(2024T170537);中国博士后科学基金第74批面上资助项目(2023M742183);陕西高校青年创新团队项目(20301007901)。

摘　　要：辽代散乐服饰造型多样、纹样精巧、文化内涵丰富。文章以辽代散乐服饰元素为研究对象,采用文献研究、历史学和图像学方法对辽代壁画中散乐人物服饰纹样进行归纳整理,在分析各类艺术特点的文化基础上,提取典型的纹样元素运用形状文法进行创新运用于表演服饰中,并通过模糊综合评价法对设计方案进行评价,设计方案既保留了原有文化特征,又符合了现代审美需求,通过调查分析,获得了较高的满意度,从而使辽代散乐服饰元素的表演服饰应用的可行性与文化传播的有效性得到了验证,同时为中国传统表演服饰文化在当代表演服饰设计中的创新应用及传播提供多学科融合的研究路径与探索经验。The San Yue costumes in Liao Dynasty have diverse shapes,exquisite patterns,and rich cultural connotations.The article takes the elements of San Yue in the Liao Dynasty as the research object,and uses literature research,history,and imaging methods to summarize and organize the patterns of San Yue characters'costumes in Liao Dynasty murals.On the basis of analyzing the cultural characteristics of various arts,typical pattern elements are extracted and innovatively applied in performance costumes using shape grammar.The design scheme is evaluated through fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method,which preserves the original cultural characteristics,It also meets the modern aesthetic needs and has achieved high satisfaction through investigation and analysis,thus verifying the feasibility and effectiveness of cultural dissemination of the performance clothing elements of the Liao Dynasty San Yue.At the same time,it provides a multidisciplinary research path and exploration experience for the innovative application and dissemination of traditional Chinese performance clothing culture in contemporary performance clothing design.

关 键 词：辽代 散乐 服饰元素 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS94.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]