敦煌壁画中的鱼袋及其反映的章服制度——以供养人题记和画像为中心  

The fish bags in Dunhuang murals and the reflected ceremonial costume system:Centered around the inscriptions and portraits of the donors

作　　者：崔岩[1] CUI Yan(Dunhuang Costume Culture Research&Creative Design Center,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing,100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院敦煌服饰文化研究暨创新设计中心,北京100029

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第4期88-95,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：北京市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);陕西高校青年创新团队支持计划“中国传统服饰文化研究创新团队”。

摘　　要：针对敦煌壁画中的鱼袋及其反映的章服制度问题,以供养人题记和画像为中心,对唐至宋代相关文献和图像资料进行分析,同时结合出土实物,对此时期流行的鱼袋的形制和材质进行推理。研究表明:鱼袋佩戴者身份主要为归义军节度使及高级官员;鱼袋从皮囊木胎演变至木底金质,并最终发展定型为长方形底、顶面有连续拱形凸起且尾部翘起的物件;结合紫绯等品官服色成为唐代章服制度的主要组成部分,具有实用功能和恩荣符号的双重属性。敦煌壁画中的鱼袋以及反映的章服制度对五代宋时期产生深远影响,成为归义军政权在服制方面延续唐制、奉中原王朝为正朔的历史见证。This article focuses on the fish bags in Dunhuang murals and the issues reflected in their official attire system.It analyzed relevant literature and image materials from the Tang to Song dynasties,focused on the inscriptions and portraits of the donors.At the same time,it combined unearthed objects to infer the shape and material of popular fish bags during this period.Research shows that the wearer of the fish bag is mainly a military governor and senior official of the Guiyi Army.The fish bag evolves from a leather bag made of wood to a wooden base made of gold,and eventually developes into a rectangular bottom with a continuous arched protrusion on the top and a raised tail.Combined with purple and other official clothing colors,it becomes a major component of the Tang dynasty′s official clothing system,with a dual attribute of practical function and the symbol of grace and honor.The fish bags in Dunhuang murals and the reflected ceremonial costume system have a profound impact on the Five dynasties and Song dynasties,becoming a historical witness to the continuation of the Tang system and the orthodoxy of the Central Plains dynasty in the ceremonial costume by the Guiyi army regime.

关 键 词：敦煌壁画 鱼袋 章服制度 供养人题记 供养人画像 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J509[艺术—艺术设计]