明代《汝水巾谱》所辑巾服特征与时代映射  

The characteristics and era mapping of scarves in Ru Shui Jin Pu of the Ming Dynasty

作　　者：牛犁 张秋莹 NIU Li;ZHANG Qiuying(College of Digital Technology and Creative Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;China’s Excellent Traditional Culture Inheritance Base of theMinistry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学数字科技与创意设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学教育部中华优秀传统文化传承基地,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第10期123-130,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZD048)。

摘　　要：《汝水巾谱》是现存罕有的融合明代巾服清晰图绘与文字辑注的古籍资料,全书绘制明代巾服32式。本文采用文献研究法对《汝水巾谱》成书背景和构成内容进行梳理,结合图文互证法与艺术考古法分析所辑巾服的形制特征并进一步解析巾服所呈现的时代映射与客观局限。研究表明:《汝水巾谱》所辑巾服来源包含前代已有巾式和作者自创款式,基础结构按披幅划分为4种,巾体造型有平顶型、方顶型、弧顶型和穹顶型4种,装饰手法与表达方式丰富多样,其辑录思想体现着作者对前代名士的仰慕和君子品性的向往之情,结合此书创制背景与辑录内容以此管窥晚明时期社会等级失序下文士巾服中追求复古、标榜奇异、推崇仙道的时代审美风尚映射。The Ming Dynasty was the most popular and prosperous period in the culture of scarves in ancient Chinese society.During this period,the types of scarves evolved and alienated in a large number,and there were diverse presentations in terms of structure,shape and expression.The wearing groups also included almost all social classes of men,among whom the scholar group was the most prominent.The popular fashion of this kind of scarf also makes the Ming Dynasty retain more historical materials related to scarvs,and Ru Shui Jin Pu is an rare ancient book that integrates the clear drawing and text annotation of the Ming Dynasty’s scarvs.The book is divided into four parts:inscription,catalogue,map and postscript.In the part of the map,32 types of clothes in the Ming Dynasty are clearly drawn.The large number and variety are important historical materials for studying the fashion of the Ming Dynasty’s scarvs,and also contribute to the study of the culture of headdress in the Ming Dynasty.Based on this,this paper first combed the texts and images contained in Ru Shui Jin Pu,and then used the literature research method to study the background of the book and the related text annotations and extended contents of the scarves.Secondly,it summarized the structure and modeling characteristics,expression methods and decorative techniques of the scarves by combining the mutual proof method with the comparative analysis method.Finally,it analyzed the era mapping and objective limitations of the popular fashion of scarves in the Ming Dynasty presented by Ru Shui Jin Pu by the art archaeology method.The research shows that Ru Shui Jin Pu was written by Zhu Shuxun,a son of the imperial clan during the Chongzhen period of the late Ming Dynasty.The 32 types of scarvs in the book are either inherited from the predecessors or designed by the wearers.As for the first 13 types of scarves,the source,purpose,wearers and shape description of the scarves are recorded in detail.As for the latter 19 types of scarves,the book mainly describes

关 键 词：明代 首服 汝水巾谱 图像 巾服特征 时代映射 士人风尚 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]