温和表面活性剂对染后头发色素洗脱能力的影响探究  

Study on the Pigment Removal Capabilities of Mild Surfactants on Dyed Hair

作　　者：陈梅 常晓维 CHEN Mei;CHANG Xiaowei(Shanghai Research Center of Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201102,China)

机构地区：[1]珀莱雅上海研发中心,上海201102

出　　处：《中国洗涤用品工业》2024年第9期62-72,共11页China Cleaning Industry

摘　　要：主要介绍超声法用于模拟实际生活中染烫头发的多次清洗过程,并用此方法验证多种阴离子表面活性剂、两性表面活性剂和非离子表面活性剂对漂染后发束的色素洗脱能力的影响。结果表明,对漂染后发束的色素洗脱能力测试排序为:阴离子表面活性剂>两性表面活性剂>非离子表面活性剂,这与表面活性剂的温和性排序基本一致。其中在阴离子表面活性剂中,传统的硫酸盐表面活性剂对色素的洗脱能力较一些温和的表面活性剂强,如椰油酰羟乙磺酸酯钠、椰油酰甲基牛磺酸牛磺酸钠、甲基椰油酰基牛磺酸钠等。基于筛选结果开发了一款对染后头发色素洗脱能力较小的香波,其具有与一些宣称护色的市售样品相当的护色功效。The study primarily explores the use of ultrasound for simulating the multiple washing processes of dyed hair in real-life scenarios.This method is employed to assess the pigment removal capabilities of various anionic surfactants,amphoteric surfactants,and non-ionic surfactants on dyed hair swatches.The results indicate that the ranking of pigment removal capabilities for dyed hair swatches is as follows:anionic surfactants>amphoteric surfactants>non-ionic surfactants,aligning closely with the general ranking of surfactants'mildness.Within the category of anionic surfactants,traditional sulfate surfactants exhibit stronger pigment removal capabilities compared to other milder options,such as sodium cocoyl isethionate,sodium taurine cocoyl methyltaurate,and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.Based on the screening results,a shampoo formulation with less impact on colored-hair pigment was developed.This shampoo demonstrates color protection effects comparable to some commercially available products claiming hair color protection.

关 键 词：表面活性剂 阴离子 非离子 两性 护色 香波 

分 类 号：TQ423[化学工程]