基于工艺相似性的衬衣部件模块族构建  

Construction of shirt component module groups based on process similarity

作　　者：盛锡彬 赵崧灵 顾冰菲 SHENG Xibin;ZHAO Songling;GU Bingfei(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;Digital Intelligence Style and Creative Design Research Center,Key Research Center of Philosophy and Social Sciences,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江省哲学社会科学重点培育研究基地浙江理工大学数智风格与创意设计研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [3]丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第10期170-176,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61702461);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J202007);浙江省哲学社会科学规划艺术学课题资助项目(24NDJC171YB);浙江理工大学科研业务费专项资金资助项目(24076114Y)。

摘　　要：为建立服装生产标准工时预测模型,实现混合款式的模块化生产编排优化,提出了基于衬衣部件工艺相似性的生产工艺模块族构建方法。以550款典型衬衫款式为例,根据服装结构及裁片种类,整理各部件造型及加工种类差异,建立相关数据集。从生产角度将衬衣部件生产工艺划分为42个模块并进行编码,结合31种工艺类型构建“模块-工艺”结构矩阵,通过基于等价关系的模糊聚类及F-统计量,最终确定11类衬衣模块族。聚类结果经过验证基本符合实际生产情况,且同一模块族工序加工工艺基本类似。该研究理论可推广到成本核算、工资发放、质量评估等方面,可为服装生产编排、工期预测等提供一定的参考。Objective Under the background of digital economy,the popularity of individual needs promotes the diversified development of clothing styles,which brings new opportunities and challenges to clothing production.At present,the clothing market as a whole presents a"multi-variety,small batch,short cycle"production mode.In order to reduce production difficulty caused by excessive style changes and to reduce production costs,industrial customization is oriented to customer demand while taking into account the production speed and economic benefits,in which modular production is one of the effective means to achieve this production mode.Method Using the fuzzy clustering of equivalence relation,the method of building module group of shirt processing components was achieved.The typical shirt styles produced in recent years were taken as the research object,the common styles in production were sorted and classified.The main shapes and processing methods were summarized,the processing modules and stitch types were classified and coded,and the shirt modules were divided under the production situation of short flow.Results After the basic module group and processing technology are summarized,the classification of clothing modules is quantitatively analyzed and studied.First of all,the complex process is preliminarily screened.Processing examples of different modules:0 indicates that the module does not use this process,1 indicates that the module will use this process for processing.The truncated matrices under differentλthresholds are established by fuzzy hierarchical matrix.The modules are clustered from large to small,and different truncated matrices are divided into different truncated matrices.A total of 19 kinds of clustering results were obtained for all types of parts(parts)modules,with a total of 42 parts(parts).On the basis of preliminary screening,fuzzy F-statistic formula was used to calculate the corresponding values of different clustering results.The optimal solution is obtained when the module group of shirt

关 键 词：衬衫 款式 工艺相似性 模糊聚类 模块族 模块化生产 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]