基于皮尔斯符号学的土家勾形纹样织锦的应用  

Application of Tujia Hook Pattern Brocade based on Peirce's Semiotics

作　　者：周佳俊 栾海龙[1] ZHOU Jiajun;LUAN Hailong(College of Fashion,Dalian Polytechnic University,Dalian Liaoning 116034,China)

机构地区：[1]大连工业大学服装学院,辽宁大连116034

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第5期28-33,共6页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

摘　　要：土家族勾形图案是土家族文化的重要组成部分,是其民族历史与文化的视觉符号。文章利用皮尔斯符号学的方法深入挖掘土家族传统文化中勾形图案的历史意义及其深层含义,并通过相关的土家勾形纹样实物资料为线索,分析土家族勾形纹样符号的像似性、指示性以及规约性之间的关系。研究结果表明,土家族勾形纹样是符号学三元关系中像似性、指示性以及规约性相互作用、相互影响的产物,是符号从无形到有形再到有所指、有所意的演变过程。证实了土家族勾形纹样从“八勾”到“七十二勾”的演变,是物与物、物与人、人与人乃至万物之间的不断联系、发展和相互照应的结果。土家族织锦图纹样式极为丰富,色彩变化巧妙,主题多是以虚幻和现实相结合。通过探析具有中国传统民族文化内涵和特点的土家族勾形纹样的审美理念、艺术表达等,总结出土家族勾形纹样是历代土家族人依据其生活劳动、文化习俗以及社会历史发展等场景所创作演变而来的符合土家族人民民俗信仰、辛勤劳作以及生生不息的美好意愿。Tujia hook pattern is one of the main bodies of Tujia culture and the visual symbol of its national history and culture.From the perspective of Pierce semiotics,this paper interprets the historical significance and cultural connotation of the traditional tujia hook pattern,and at the same time takes the physical data of the relevant Tujia hook pattern as the clue of the tujia hook pattern symbol.The results show that the Tujia hook pattern is the product of the interaction ofimage,indicator and regulation in the ternary relationship of semiology,and is the evolution process of symbol from invisible to tangible to meaning and meaning.It proves that the evolution of tujia hook pattern from"eight hook"to"seventy-two hook",which is the continuous connection,development and mutual reference between things and things,things and people,people and people and even all things.Through analysis has the traditional Chinese national culture connotation and characteristics of tujia hook shape of aesthetic idea,artistic expression,etc.,summed up the tujia hook pattern is based on the living labor,cultural customs and social and historical development scene evolved from the tujia people folk beliefs,hard work and endless good will.The Tujia brocade pattern style structure is very rich,the color change is clever,and the theme is mostly a combination of fantasy and reality.The Tujia people retain these patterns that reflect the national aspirations in the form of brocade and constantly innovate them.Because of this,this unique national belief makes the Tujia family culture ever passed on to this day.

关 键 词：土家织锦 勾形纹样 纹样图案 符号学 

分 类 号：J0-05[艺术—艺术理论]