基于二氧化硫脲还原剥色的丝织物扎染新工艺  

A New Process of Silk tie-dyeing based on Reduction Stripping with Urea Sulfur Dioxide

作　　者：陈秀芳[1] 徐若瑶 姚骏 冯姣媚 CHEN Xiufang;XU Ruoyao;YAO Jun;FENG Jiaomei(Department of Modern Garment Engineering,Anhui Vocational and Technical College,Hefei Anhui 230011,China;Department of Textile and Garment,Shaoxing University,Shaoxing Zhejiang 312000,China)

机构地区：[1]安徽职业技术学院现代服装学院,安徽合肥230011 [2]绍兴文理学院,浙江绍兴312000

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第5期79-84,共6页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：安徽省高等学校自然科学研究项目(2023AH051461、2023AH051424);安徽职业技术学院质量工程项目(2022yjjxyj21、2022yjjpkc12)。

摘　　要：扎染作为时尚流行元素,其产品设计一直是个热门话题,当前文献报道大多侧重扎染的图案设计、扎花技法和产品应用,深入研究其染色工艺的相对较少。文章提出先以活性染料对丝织物染地色,扎染时采用二氧化硫脲作为还原剂对地色染料进行剥色,同时选择中性染料对丝织物进行着色,以开发扎染新工艺。单因素影响实验结果表明,在无碱条件下,二氧化硫脲质量浓度1g/L、还原温度90℃、还原时间6min时,诺威克隆红S-B、红EC-4B、橙EC-3R和蓝EC-R四只活性染料染色丝织物的剥色率分别达到95.43%、97.54%、92.91%和96.62%。扎染时选择相同浓度与温度、还原时间大于6min,活性染料染色的丝织物通过单色扎染可以获得与常规扎染相反的图案效果,也可以通过中染料着色获得两套色或以上的扎染效果。As a popular fashion element,tie-dyeing product design has always been a hot topic.Most of the current literature reports focus on the pattern design,floral techniques and product applications of tie-dye,and there are relatively few in-depth studies on its dyeing process.In order to develop a new tie-dyeing process,this paper uses reactive dyes to dye the silk fabric,urea sulfur dioxide is used as a reducing agent to strip the dye,and neutral dyes are selected to color the silk fabric.The experimental results of single factor influence show that under the condition of no alkali,when the mass concentration of urea sulfur dioxide is 1g/L,the reduction temperature is 90℃,and the reduction time is 6min,the stripping rates of four reactive dyes,namely red S-B,red EC-4B,orange EC-3R and blue EC-R,can reach 95.43%,97.54%,92.91%and 96.62%,respectively.When selecting the same concentration and temperature,and the reduction time is greater than 6min,the silk fabric dyed with reactive dyes can obtain the opposite pattern effect with conventional tie-dyeing through monochromatic tiedyeing,and can also obtain two sets of color or more tie-dyeing effect with neutral dyes exhaustion.

关 键 词：丝织物 扎染 二氧化硫脲 活性染料 中性染料 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]