中国古代补子纹样流变探析  

Analysis of the evolution of Chinese ancient Buzi

作　　者：李欣怡 苏淼[1,2] LI Xinyi;SU Miao(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Silk Institute),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;International Silk and Silk Road Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际丝绸与丝绸之路研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《染整技术》2024年第10期54-58,63,共6页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2019YFC1521301);浙江省文物保护专项项目(2021016)。

摘　　要：补子是古代重要的服饰元素之一,作为区分服用之人身份和等级的标志,是封建制度在服饰中的典型代表。深入研究补子纹样的历史变迁,比较研究胸背补子,并结合古籍、考古报告与传世图像资料等,追溯补子起源,梳理其纹样流变发展,并深入剖析流变原因及文化内涵。研究认为,补子最早可追溯至金代,是从蒙元时期的胸背演变发展而来,在后来的历史时期经历了多次演变与发展,并影响了周边国家的服制。胸背补子的形态受到政治、经济、文化以及技术等多方面因素的影响,呈现出独特的审美倾向和工艺特征,是中国古代服饰艺术演变的重要表现。Buzi was significant elements in ancient Chinese attire,serving as symbols to distinguish the identity and status of the wearer,representing a typical aspect of the feudal system in clothing.An in-depth study on the historical evolution of Buzi is conducted.Through a comparative study of chest and back patches,combined with ancient texts,archaeological reports,and heritage image data,the origin of Buzi is traced,the development of their patterns is outlined,and a thorough analysis of the reasons and cultural connotations behind their evolution is provided.The study suggests that Buzi can be traced back to the Jin Dynasty,evolving from the chest and back patterns during the Mongol Yuan period.In subsequent historical periods,Buzi underwent multiple changes and developments,influencing the clothing styles of surrounding countries.The form of chest and back Buzi was influenced by various factors such as politics,economy,culture,and technology,exhibiting unique aesthetic.

关 键 词：补子 胸背 服制 纹样 服饰流变 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]