石河子大学博物馆馆藏汉唐TL12经锦饰物残件鉴定研究与考辨  

Study and Textual Research of Han and Tang Dynasty TL12 Warp Brocade Fragments in the Collection of the Shihezi University Museum

作　　者：杭航 曹亚红[2] 张素虹 王亚蓉[4] HANG Hang;CAO Yahong;ZHANG Suhong;WANG Yarong(Arts Academy,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100020,China;Archives,University of International Business and Economics,Beijing 100020,China;Shihezi University Museum,Shihezi 832003,China;Institute of Archaeology Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100020,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100020 [2]对外经济贸易大学档案馆,北京100020 [3]石河子大学博物馆,新疆石河子832003 [4]中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京100020

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第5期420-424,共5页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：北京市学科建设项目(NHFZ20220007)。

摘　　要：丝绸之路上出土了很多织锦文物,其中一些并无明确的考古记载,通过织物的组织结构、织造工艺、纹样风格来判别其出土年代和地点,是纺织考古学的重要课题。以石河子大学博物馆馆藏汉唐时期TL12经锦饰物残片为例,分析其织物组织结构和工艺,基于纺织考古学和艺术学的研究方法推演出其原本纹样,并结合织物图案特征和出土文物进行对比,认为该织物应是源自汉晋时期西域地区的云气动物纹经锦。结果表明,针对没有明确出处甚至磨损严重的织锦文物,可以通过组织结构研究、反面纹样推演复原、相似文物对比考证等方法来对其所属时代以及出土区域进行鉴定研究与考辨。As some brocades cultural relics unearthed along the Silk Road lack clear archaeological records,it's an important topic of textile archaeology to judge the date and location of these relics through fabric structure,weaving technology and pattern style.This paper introduces the preservation status of the TL12 warp brocade fragments from the Han and Tang Dynasties collected by Shihezi University Museum,analyzes the weave structure and technology of the fragments,deduces its original patterns,and compares it with unearthed cultural relics combining research methods from textile archaeology and art studies.The fabric should be the warp brocade with the pattern of the clouds and animals,originated from the Western Regions during the Han and Jin Dynasties.The study results indicate that those severely worn brocade cultural relics with unclear origins can be identified and studied for their age and excavation area through methods such as organizational structure research,reverse pattern deduction and restoration,and comparative verification of similar cultural relics.

关 键 词：汉唐 丝绸 经锦 结构工艺 纹样 

分 类 号：K854.2[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学] TS941.3[历史地理—历史学]