晚唐至元初绘画作品中“单肩包”的样式、功能及其发展的社会因素  

The Styles,Functions,and Social Factors Influencing the Development of Shoulder Bags in Paintings from the Late Tang to Early Yuan Dynasties

作　　者：邓莉丽[1] Deng Lili

机构地区：[1]江苏大学艺术学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第5期41-47,共7页Art & Design Research

基　　金：2024年国家社科基金艺术学项目“技术文化观下的宋辽金西夏工艺美术史研究”(项目编号:24BG144)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：在中国服饰史上,与腰间悬挂系结的荷包、荷囊等小型包具相比,可供肩挎的、现代意义上的包则出现得较晚,元代之前几乎没有实物发现。文章基于晚唐至元初的绘画作品,从使用者身份的角度,探讨了这一时期的“单肩包”,具体又包括“单肩挎包”及“斜挎包”的样式及功能。在此基础上,我们分析了促使其发展的社会因素,认为其发展与传教之需求密切相关,同时也是丝路之宗教文化、胡汉文化交流的产物;除此,亦受到蒙元游牧民族服饰文化的影响。In the historical evolution of Chinese attire,shoulder bags,a contemporary form of luggage worn over the shoulder,emerged relatively late in comparison to ancient waist-worn pouches and sachets.Prior to the Yuan Dynasty,there are virtually no physical specimens of such bags available for examination.The article,based on painting works from the late Tang Dynasty to the early Yuan period,explores the“shoulder bag”of this era from the perspective of the user’s identity,specifically examining the styles and functions of“shoulder bags”and“crossbody bags”.On this basis,we analyze the social factors that contributed to their development,asserting that their ascendancy is closely related to the needs of missionary endeavors and is also a product of the religious and cultural exchanges along the Silk Road,as well as interactions between Han and non-Han cultures.Furthermore,it was influenced by the clothing culture of the nomadic Mongol Yuan.

关 键 词：晚唐至元初 单肩包 使用者 样式与功能 社会因素 

分 类 号：J05[艺术—艺术理论]