从“针线”到“视线”——服装设计师职业化源流考  

From“Needlework”to“Line of Sight”:A Study on the Professionalization of Fashion Designers

作　　者：宋炀[1] 李根阳 Song Yang;Li Genyang

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2024年第5期48-56,共9页Art & Design Research

基　　金：2024年度国家社科基金艺术学重点项目“中外期刊比较视域下的中国设计学研究范式建构”(项目编号:24AG020);北京服装学院研究生教学改革项目(项目编号:NHFZ20230181)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：本文通过词汇学与案例研究法,追溯服装设计师英语词汇源流、梳理欧洲制衣方式演变史,探讨服装设计师职业化的历程,论证了服装设计师职业化的历程就是人们在着装制衣过程中逐一探索和解决现实问题的过程:即如何实现买得方便、穿得时尚、用得舒适等着装目标。同时,进一步解答了服装设计师的职能:即串联起生产制作、审美引导、造型服务、营销推广等各个环节的设计管理者。也就是说,自源头起,服装设计师的职能就不是单向度的,需兼备跨学科知识,能够多维度思考并解决服装设计过程中各环节的问题,促进时尚流行体系的多元化发展。这也促使我们思考:在包括服装设计师在内的整个设计领域内,现当代职业设计师的职能特征及其发展转向。This paper,leveraging lexicology and case study methodology,traces the origins of English vocabulary related to fashion designers,outlines the historical evolution of European garment-making practices,and explores the professionalization journey of fashion designers.It argues that the path to professionalism for fashion designers is essentially a process of solving practical challenges encountered in garment-making and dressing:ensuring ease of purchase,aesthetic appeal in attire,and comfort in application.Furthermore,it clarifies the multifaceted roles of a fashion designer,which involve integrating production and manufacturing,aesthetic guidance,styling services,and marketing promotion as a design manager.In essence,the initial role of a fashion designer is not unidimensional;it requires interdisciplinary knowledge and the ability to think and resolve issues from various dimensions throughout the garment design process,promoting the diversification of the fashion system.This prompts further contemplation of the functional characteristics and evolution of modern professional designers within the entire design industry,including fashion designers.

关 键 词：服装设计师 职业化 制衣流程演变 设计管理 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]