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作 者:王瑞 WANG Rui(School of History and Culture/School of Ethology,Southwest University,Beibei,Chongqing 400715,China)
机构地区:[1]西南大学历史文化学院/民族学院,重庆北碚400715
出 处:《美食研究》2024年第4期6-13,共8页Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture
基 金:国家留学基金委国家建设高水平大学公派研究生项目(202306990039)。
摘 要:炒面在北美的兴起、流行及家庭化彰显了中华饮食文化在全球范围内日益增强的传播力和影响力。19世纪中后期,炒面因白人对华侨的种族歧视和文化偏见未能融入北美主流社会。19世纪末,北美经济迅速发展、社会职业化水平提高促进餐饮业需求增加,炒面因口味丰富、经济实惠逐渐受到其他族裔的青睐。20世纪20年代,由于北美社会财富积累、城市化进程加快及消费观念转变,炒面在中餐馆甚至西人餐厅及咖啡馆中风靡一时,顾客从下层民众逐渐扩展到中产阶级,并引起了营养师、美食家和烹饪杂志专栏作家对炒面的普遍关注。北美罐头行业的崛起虽对中餐馆造成冲击,却在20世纪30年代经济大萧条时期意外推动了炒面在北美社会的家庭化。总之,以炒面为代表的中餐凭借强大的包容性和生命力促进了东西方饮食文化的交流和互动。The rise,popularity,and family adaptation of Chow Mein in North America highlight the growing spread and influence of Chinese dietary culture worldwide.In the mid-to-late 19th century,Chow Mein failed to integrate into mainstream society of North America due to racial discrimination and cultural biases against overseas Chinese by Caucasian.It was not until the late 19th century that Chow Mein became popular among other ethnic groups for its rich flavor and affordability as a result of the growth in demand for the catering industry caused by the rapid economic development and the increased professionalization of society in North America.By the 1920s,because of the accumulation of wealth,increased urbanization and changing consumer attitudes in North America,Chow Mein had became popular in Chinese eateries and even western restaurants and cafes,gradually expanding customers from the lower class to the middle class,and sparking widespread interest among nutritionists,gourmets and cooking magazine columnists.Although the rise of the canning industry in North America had an impact on Chinese restaurants,it accidentally contributed to the family adaptation of Chow Mein in North American society during the Great Depression of the 1930s.In short,the Chinese cuisine represented by Chow Mein has facilitated the exchange and interaction between Eastern and Western food cultures with its strong inclusiveness and vitality.
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