世变与迭新:民国时期女性耳饰样态艺术研究  

Changes and Adaptations:A Study on the Earring Style for Women during the Period of the Republic of China

作　　者：杨钊 郭晓 刘高品 YANG Zhao;GUO Xiao;LIU Gaopin(Gemmological Institute,China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,China;Hubei Key Research Base of Humanities and Social Sciences-Center for Jewelry Heritage and Innovation,Wuhan 430074,China;Academy of Arts&Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100000,China)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(武汉)珠宝学院,湖北武汉430074 [2]湖北省人文社科研究基地“珠宝首饰传承与创新发展研究中心”,湖北武汉430074 [3]清华大学美术学院,北京100000

出　　处：《宝石和宝石学杂志(中英文)》2024年第6期148-160,共13页Journal of Gems & Gemmology

基　　金：湖北省人文社会科学重点研究基地——珠宝首饰传承与创新发展研究中心《中国传统首饰的域外工艺反哺与审美嬗变》(项目编号CJHIXM-02-202003)阶段性研究成果。

摘　　要：中华礼仪素来讲究服饰容妆与仪态举止的配称,各美其美且美美与共,所谓“服美动目,行美动神”,“性之不饰,或愆礼正”。传统服饰也成为了封建礼制的重要载体,而传统耳饰作为服饰品的组成部分,同为封建伦理的物化品,具有一定的礼制规训功能,提示着传统社会的“体统”。随着民国时期传统礼制的瓦解与现代生活方式的兴起,首饰的主流风貌呈现新的特征,封建礼制规训作用逐渐消匿,整体功能回归到“肢体修饰”的大众审美诉求。耳饰作为典型的首饰类型之一,其形制与功能也随之生变。本文以民国时期(1912年—1949年)女性时尚耳饰为研究对象,分析其样态更迭的要素特征和时代原委。Chinese etiquette has always emphasized the harmony between people's clothing and their demeanor,and has always stressed both the distinctive and universal beauty,as reflected in old sayings,like"beautiful clothing attracts the eye,while elegant demeanor engages the mind",and"improper behavior leads to the violation of etiquette".Therefore,traditional clothing became an important carrier of feudal rites and rituals.In addition to serve as a significant clothing accessory in China's traditional feudal society,earrings,with a certain function of rules and regulations of etiquette,are also the crystallization of feudal ethics,reflecting the"decency"of traditional society.However,this type of function underwent tremendous changes in the period of the Republic of China.With the collapse of the traditional feudal etiquette and the emerge of the modern lifestyles,the mainstream style of jewelry started to present new features.The function of the earrings as a feudal etiquette gradually vanishing,and returned to the mass aesthetic appreciation of"body decoration".The pattern and function of earrings,as one of the typical types of jewelry,also underwent various changes.In this study,fashionable earrings for women in the period of the Republic of China(1912-1949)are taken as the research object to analyze the essential characteristics and causes for the changes in their patterns.

关 键 词：民国时期 耳饰样态 礼制规训 

分 类 号：TS93[轻工技术与工程]