文本与实物——论《天水冰山录》中的明代绒织物  

Text and Reality:On the Ming Dynasty Velvet Textiles in Tian Shui Bing Shan Lu

作　　者：薛宁 王晨[3] 纪明辉[4] Xue Ning;Wang Chen;Ji Minghui(Bejing Institute of Fashion Technology,Bejing 100029,China;Nanjing University of the Arts,Nanjing 210013,China;Suzhou Silk Museum,Suzhou 215001,China;Nanhang Jincheng College,Nanjing 211156,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院,北京100029 [2]南京艺术学院,南京210013 [3]苏州丝绸博物馆,苏州215001 [4]南京航空航天大学金城学院,南京211156

出　　处：《艺术与设计(理论版)》2025年第2期104-108,共5页Art and Design

基　　金：教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新人才培养”(项目号:NHFZ20240096);教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目《纺织考古视角下中国传统织物提花织造工艺研究》(项目号:23YJC760026)。

摘　　要：《天水冰山录》中所载明代绒织物的品种多样条理清晰,对明代起绒丝织物的研究具有重要的史料价值。文章以《天水冰山录》中的绒织物信息为研究对象,管窥明代绒织物的品种分类、应用范围、图案设计、装饰手法等内容,可知明代绒织物多为赐服、常服、礼服等服用面料,且多用织金、妆花等高档工艺装饰,是当时皇族官僚阶层才可使用的华贵织物品种之一。The Tian Shui Bing Shan Lu documents a variety of Ming dynasty velvet textiles with clear classifications,making it an important historical source for the study of Ming dynasty pile silk fabrics.This article takes the information on velvet textiles from the Tian Shui Ice Mountain Record as its subject,analyzing and speculating to gain insights into the classification,application scope,pattern design,and decorative techniques of Ming dynasty velvet textiles.It is known that these textiles were mostly used for ceremonial,everyday,and formal attire,often adorned with luxurious techniques such as gold weaving and decorative flowers,making them one of the precious textile varieties reserved for the imperial and bureaucratic classes of the time.

关 键 词：天水冰山录 明代 起绒织物 

分 类 号：J100.94[艺术—艺术理论] TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]