基于一维海浪谱的风涌浪成分划分方法研究  

Research on Separation Method for Wind Wave and Swell Components Based on One-Dimensional Wave Spectrum

作　　者：曲晓俊[1] 李明[1] 李浩[1] 刘壮 QU Xiaojun;LI Ming;LI Hao;LIU Zhuang(College of Oceanography and Space Informatics,China University of Petroleum(East China),Qingdao 266580,China)

机构地区：[1]中国石油大学(华东)海洋与空间信息学院,山东青岛266580

出　　处：《海洋技术学报》2025年第1期33-42,共10页Journal of Ocean Technology

摘　　要：为了提高一维海浪谱的风涌浪成分划分精度,本文基于美国国家数据浮标中心(Na-tional Data Buoy Center,NDBC)和海浪波谱仪一维海浪谱数据,提出了一种风涌浪成分划分方法。该方法主要包括两个部分,谱模型参数优化部分和决策函数判别部分,分别对应海浪谱中海浪成分的划分和风涌浪识别。首先,使用北海联合波浪项目开发的谱模型来拟合一维海浪谱进行海浪成分划分。每个谱模型代表了一个海浪成分,谱模型参数通过双重模拟退火算法进行迭代优化。其次,基于2022年12月4个浮标数据,采用支持向量机建立关于波周期与风速的决策函数来识别每个海浪成分为风浪或涌浪。最后,合并属于同种海浪成分的谱模型,得到一个风浪成分和一个涌浪成分。利用2022年6月另外2个浮标数据对方法进行了检验。结果表明:相较于目前美国国家数据浮标中心采用的修正波陡法,本文方法与二维谱风涌浪分离方法的一致性更好。此外,该方法也可用于海浪波谱仪一维海浪谱数据的风涌浪划分。To improve the accuracy of wind wave and swell components separation of one-dimensional wave spectrum,the paper proposes a separation method for wind wave and swell components based on one-dimensional wave spectrum data from the National Data Buoy Center and the wave spectrometer.The method consists of two main parts,the parameter optimization part of the spectral model and the discriminant part of the decision function,which corresponds to the separation of the wave components in the wave spectra and the identification of wind waves and swell,respectively.Firstly,the spectral models developed by the North Sea Joint Wave Program are utilized to fit one-dimensional wave spectra for wave component separation.Each spectral model represents a wave component.The spectral model parameters are iteratively optimized by a double-simulated annealing algorithm.Secondly,based on four buoys data in December 2022,a decision function on wave period and wind speed is built by a Support Vector Machine to identify each wave component as wind waves or swell.Finally,spectral models belonging to the same wave component are merged to obtain a wind wave component and a swell component.The method is tested using data from two additional buoys in June 2022.The results show that the method in the paper is in better agreement with the two-dimensional spectral wind waves-swell separation method compared to the modified wave steepness method currently used by the United States National Data Buoy Center.In addition,the method can also be utilized on the wind waves-swell separation of one-dimensional wave spectrum data from the wave spectrometer.

关 键 词：风涌浪划分 一维海浪谱 谱模型 参数优化 支持向量机 

分 类 号：P717[天文地球—海洋科学]