西式男礼服在近代上海跨文化传播与流行的条件探析  

Research on the conditions for the cross-cultural communication and popularity of Western men’s formal dresses in modern Shanghai

作　　者：丁乾琨 贾蕾蕾 梁惠娥 DING Qiankun;JIA Leilei;LIANG Hui’e(a.College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Digital Technology&Innovation Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Arts,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214105,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学数字科技与创意设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214105

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第3期131-139,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省文化和旅游科研课题一般项目(22YB30);江苏省社会科学基金青年项目(22YSC001)。

摘　　要：近代上海西式男礼服的流行反映出城市化进程、中西礼仪文化交流及服装新思潮的传播等,具有重要研究意义,但相关研究较少。文章依据公元19—20世纪中英文报刊、地方志等史料,系统阐释西式男礼服在近代上海跨文化传播与流行的条件。研究表明:其一,西方社会工业化转型、上海开埠通商及城市化进程为西式礼服的传播提供了外在基础条件;其二,西式男礼服形成了相对固定的款式及礼仪级别,且制作工艺完备、功能性较好,具备对外传播的内在必要条件;其三,近代上海自由、平等、摩登的新思潮和文化包容性是西式礼服流行的重要引导和推动条件。西式礼服的传播经历了由颇受争议、到逐渐被吸纳、至最终融入上海各类礼仪活动的过程,为全球化背景下如何将中国传统礼仪服饰推向世界舞台提供启示。The popularity of Western-style men’s formal dresses in modern Shanghai reflects the process of urbanization,the exchange of etiquette and culture between China and the West,and the spread of new ideological trends in clothing,which is of great research significance,but there are few related studies.Based on this,this study focuses on men’s dresses imported into China from Western society in the 19 th and 20 th centuries.During this period,Shanghai became a giant port in the Far East,not only the initiator of China’s new ideological trend but also the birthplace of Shanghai-style clothing.Social etiquette and customs gradually diversified,showing the characteristics of the times in which“Western customs”and“Chinese customs”coexisted.It can be seen from historical images that on various ceremonial occasions in modern Shanghai,it became fashionable for men to wear Western-style dresses such as morning coats and tuxedos.At the same time,traditional Chinese dresses such as robes and mandarin jackets still existed,and they were often worn with Western-style hats and leather shoes.As an important part of the men’s dress system in modern Shanghai,what are the necessary conditions and driving conditions for the introduction and popularity of Western-style dresses?Did the process of cross-cultural communication of Western dresses in modern Shanghai go smoothly?To address these issues,this paper probes into them from the dual perspectives of the disseminator and the audience based on various types of historical documents such as Chinese and English newspapers and local chronicles in the 19 th and 20 th centuries,and draws two main conclusions.First,from the perspective of Western society,the development of industrialization and cultural expansion of Western society provided the external basic condition for the spread of dresses,and the advantages of the mature system of Western dresses were the internal necessary condition for their cross-cultural spread.Second,from the perspective of Shanghai society,on th

关 键 词：礼服 跨文化传播 工业化 城市化 服装思潮 文明互鉴 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]